DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Framing and Foundation > What type of nails we should use on storage shed in our backyard




Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-11-2012, 11:05 PM  
vikasintl
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: lakewood, wa
Posts: 31
Likes Given: 2

Default What type of nails we should use on storage shed in our backyard

We finished floor and sub floor and now

Please tell us nails we should use on wall frame as well as on roll roofing.
I have been told 16d common for wall framing ...correct me if am wrong...

Two of the four walls will have dimensional lumber 2x4 at 16" center
and other two will have pressure treated 2x6 again 16" center ..so advice accordingly.
also what type of nails to be used when we put t1-11?



__________________
vikasintl is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-12-2012, 07:32 AM  
joecaption
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hartfield VA, VA
Posts: 1,361
Liked 38 Times on 33 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

I would never ever suggest using roll roofing for any roof. It's just not going to last very long and is prone to leaking.
What's the pitch of the roof?
As far as nail sizes depends on how your going to build the wall.
If your building it the right way with the wall laying flat on the floor, then 16D will work, if your toe nailing then use 8D nails, two on one side and one in the middle on the other side.
You did build the floor framing out of pressure treated wood right?
And you used joist hangers?
Any pressure treated wood needs ACQ approved fastners.
For the T-111 use hot diped 8D spiral siding nails. They have smaller heads.
For that T-111 to have 1/2 a chance of not rotting out at the bottom it needs to be a min. of 8" up off the ground.
Before I install it I apply soild colored stain 2' up the back side and all along the bottom, with two coats.
Paint will just peel shortly and if the bottom is not sealed it will wick up moisture and distory the siding in a few years.



__________________
joecaption is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-12-2012, 11:27 AM  
vikasintl
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: lakewood, wa
Posts: 31
Likes Given: 2

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
I would never ever suggest using roll roofing for any roof. It's just not going to last very long and is prone to leaking.
What's the pitch of the roof?
As far as nail sizes depends on how your going to build the wall.
If your building it the right way with the wall laying flat on the floor, then 16D will work, if your toe nailing then use 8D nails, two on one side and one in the middle on the other side.
You did build the floor framing out of pressure treated wood right?
And you used joist hangers?
Any pressure treated wood needs ACQ approved fastners.
For the T-111 use hot diped 8D spiral siding nails. They have smaller heads.
For that T-111 to have 1/2 a chance of not rotting out at the bottom it needs to be a min. of 8" up off the ground.
Before I install it I apply soild colored stain 2' up the back side and all along the bottom, with two coats.
Paint will just peel shortly and if the bottom is not sealed it will wick up moisture and distory the siding in a few years.
1.Don't know the pitch but it will low slope flat roof...
2. Yes walls laying flat on floor..so 16d should be hot galvanized spiral or common nails ? or vinyl coated sinkers are better ? for pressure treated wood? and for non pressure treated wood in walls 16d galvanized or 16d vinyl coated sinkers?
3. yes used pressure treated for the floor but did not use joist hangers just 3 nails and those nails are for treated wood.
__________________

Last edited by vikasintl; 05-12-2012 at 12:23 PM.
vikasintl is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-12-2012, 11:15 PM  
joecaption
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hartfield VA, VA
Posts: 1,361
Liked 38 Times on 33 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

Far better to also have joist hangers. As the wood drys the nails can come loose and the floor joist and floor joist can try to twist, The hangers keep the floor joist attached to the rim joist.

__________________
joecaption is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-13-2012, 12:16 AM  
CallMeVilla
Contractor
 
CallMeVilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,276
Liked 393 Times on 306 Posts
Likes Given: 161

Default

I just built a 18' shed and chose NOT to use T-111, even though it is cheaper. My elevation from ground level was not high enough so I chose 5/8" CDX primed and painted inside, bottom edge, and out with a 2 5/8" overhang. Ground is another 2" lower.

Since I live and work in San Diego, the weather is temperate and rainfall is <9" a year. The shed sits on pressure treated skids plus a floor frame of 2x4s 16" oc) and a 5/8" subfloor screwed with 1 5/8" outdoor deck screws. Wall sheathing is 5/8" CDX as is the roof sheathing. Trusses are 2x4 at 24" oc with 2X4 collar ties for strength using double trusses at each end for agged strength and roof geometry at the rakes. Some will quibble a the truss design but the weather allows for no rafter tails, so I built accordingly. A local shed manufacturer has a similar design.

shed-truss-2.jpg  
__________________
CallMeVilla is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-13-2012, 09:17 AM  
vikasintl
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: lakewood, wa
Posts: 31
Likes Given: 2

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Far better to also have joist hangers. As the wood drys the nails can come loose and the floor joist and floor joist can try to twist, The hangers keep the floor joist attached to the rim joist.

Well I did not know I am suppose to use joist hangers but good thing is 2x6 treated lumber I used is at least 5 years old so can I assume its already dry so nails will not come loose???

also I used galvanized spiral 16d nails ...

can I relax that its ok if I did not use floor joist?
__________________
vikasintl is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-13-2012, 09:20 AM  
vikasintl
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: lakewood, wa
Posts: 31
Likes Given: 2

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CallMeVilla View Post
I just built a 18' shed and chose NOT to use T-111, even though it is cheaper. My elevation from ground level was not high enough so I chose 5/8" CDX primed and painted inside, bottom edge, and out with a 2 5/8" overhang. Ground is another 2" lower.

Since I live and work in San Diego, the weather is temperate and rainfall is <9" a year. The shed sits on pressure treated skids plus a floor frame of 2x4s 16" oc) and a 5/8" subfloor screwed with 1 5/8" outdoor deck screws. Wall sheathing is 5/8" CDX as is the roof sheathing. Trusses are 2x4 at 24" oc with 2X4 collar ties for strength using double trusses at each end for agged strength and roof geometry at the rakes. Some will quibble a the truss design but the weather allows for no rafter tails, so I built accordingly. A local shed manufacturer has a similar design.
Thanks for valuable information and picture....
__________________
vikasintl is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-13-2012, 10:13 AM  
kok328
Supporting Member
HRT_SUPPORTER.png
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Grand Blanc, MI
Posts: 2,195
Liked 112 Times on 97 Posts
Likes Given: 64

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vikasintl View Post
Well I did not know I am suppose to use joist hangers but good thing is 2x6 treated lumber I used is at least 5 years old so can I assume its already dry so nails will not come loose???

also I used galvanized spiral 16d nails ...

can I relax that its ok if I did not use floor joist?
If the wood was 5 years old then it has dried out then the shrink, twist and warping has already occurred if it is going to. This may be your saving grace.
__________________
kok328 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-13-2012, 10:18 AM  
vikasintl
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: lakewood, wa
Posts: 31
Likes Given: 2

Default

lol thanks

__________________
vikasintl is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-18-2012, 10:46 AM  
vikasintl
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: lakewood, wa
Posts: 31
Likes Given: 2

Default

Now I have question for roof and wall sheathing..

1. When we put plywood or osb(we are not sure what we will use?)
on roof rafter..what nails we should use ...should we use 8d vinyl coated or cement coated sinkers or just 8d bright common ?

2. What size and type of nails we should use when we put felt paper and roll roofing over this low slope flat roof?

3. we are putting t1-11 for siding what type of nails we should use for this?
we were told galvanized 8d spirals or ring shank is that correct? or we should use 8d vinyl coated sinkers?



__________________
vikasintl is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter DIY Home Repair Forum Replies Last Post
Converting and insulating a metal storage shed into a green house hoksumm General Home Improvement Discussion 1 07-25-2011 02:16 PM
Looking to build this type of shed woodworks4home Carpentry and Woodworking 1 06-09-2011 04:46 AM
Help with unknown wall type and unknown paint type needtofixwall Walls and Ceilings 2 09-16-2010 11:08 AM
Dock construction-What type of wood and Nails work best? SWS20 General Home Improvement Discussion 1 03-17-2007 08:42 PM
Need to set up storage in garage Rike Carpentry and Woodworking 10 10-15-2005 08:00 PM