DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Plumbing Forum > Anybody have specs for a sump pump?




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Old 05-16-2014, 04:38 PM  
Wuzzat?
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By popular demand I pulled 1 gallon out of the sump and timed the refill. One minute. A 40w pond pump can keep up with this fill rate but this
http://www.westsidewholesale.com/flotec-fp0s1300x.html??keyword=Google_Shopping=?keyword=G oogle_Shopping&mr:trackingCode=36CE0BFC-0E09-E311-B773-BC305BF933C0&mr:referralID=NA&mr:device=c&mr:adTyp e=pla&mr:ad=46253780365&mr:keyword=&mr:match=&mr:f ilter=88930365325&gclid=CL-_tqi-sb4CFYGhOgod2UoA1A
is cheaper.

I probably won't need a check valve.
Now to find a water level switch.

After 24 hours the sump water level rose 2" out of the 4" rain we got. Even with the remaining two inches the floor will not flood. I doubt now that we ever needed a sump or a sump pump but I will gamble $100 + labor that I'm wrong. Of course, to find this out I needed a hole in the basement floor, a failed pump and heavy rain that caused road & school closures.



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Old 05-16-2014, 04:43 PM  
nealtw
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http://www.homedepot.ca/product/sump-pump-submersible-1-4-horsepower/928217?gclid=CNeIuoDCsb4CFYqFfgodb08A1g&ef_id=Uub2 zgAABCjoeu0W:20140516224215:s


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Old 05-16-2014, 04:45 PM  
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" sump basins with 14 in. and larger diameters. "
My 11-1/4 sq. basin has a diagonal of ~16". It may work.
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Old 05-18-2014, 04:39 PM  
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Pulled the trigger on Flotec, UPC 022315100022, $83 + tax at HD.
The box says it needs a 5/8" ID output hose but the inside literature says 3/4" ID.

Plugged it in and it did make a noise like it runs and air came out of the output port. So far, so good.

Then I ran a hose to a drain and plugged this thing into extension cord and tried to drain the sump but water came out of everywhere since I didn't use Teflon tape on any of the fittings.
By this time there was water and 120v everywhere and I was close to qualifying for a Darwin Award and I was so drunk that doorframes went out of their way to hit me. Fug, yes!

So I stopped.

In the days to come I will build my own float switch from Microswitches from my basement junkbox and plastic pill containers. This float assembly will be detachable for ease of testing.
Since it's way more important that the pump runs when it should than
when it's off when it should be, I may put two switches in parallel.

You would be surprised at how complicated this electro-mechanical-hydraulic system is.

I occasionally need hot water outside in the winter so I can use the PVC pipe that runs through the basement wall from the existing setup to snake a garden hose through the pipe from the water heater, the same one that I will snake the output hose for this pump.

Being more or less portable since the output is a flexible, detachable garden hose, this pump can be used for other things.
It's a win-win. Fug, yes!

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Old 05-19-2014, 07:11 AM  
bud16415
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Years ago in my younger days I built my own float switch setup to run a sump pump that I got from a missionary they were tearing down. It was not a submersible pump and I used a toilet ball float and some all thread rod screwed into it and guided it by putting the all thread thru some plastic pipe guides. I used a regular light switch that I drilled a hole thru the flipper and tied two strings one to flip the switch on and another to flip it off. I had a little over travel due to the lag in when it would turn on and when it would actually start lowering the water and I added a spring to the strings to take care of that. Amazingly this setup worked for 20 years and cycled frequently as it had a washing machine also sharing the sump. It finally died of rust and gunk and I thought for a few seconds about building a new one but it seemed with age I had more money and less time for such tinkering and I bought a tether ball float and dropped it in the sump one zip tie and plugged it in. I doubt it will last 20 years but I hope to be around to find out. It’s been going about 10 so far.

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Old 05-19-2014, 10:17 AM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bud16415 View Post
Years ago in my younger days I built my own float switch setup to run a sump pump that I got from a missionary they were tearing down. It was not a submersible pump and I used a toilet ball float and some all thread rod screwed into it and guided it by putting the all thread thru some plastic pipe guides. I used a regular light switch that I drilled a hole thru the flipper and tied two strings one to flip the switch on and another to flip it off. I had a little over travel due to the lag in when it would turn on and when it would actually start lowering the water and I added a spring to the strings to take care of that. Amazingly this setup worked for 20 years and cycled frequently as it had a washing machine also sharing the sump. It finally died of rust and gunk and I thought for a few seconds about building a new one but it seemed with age I had more money and less time for such tinkering and I bought a tether ball float and dropped it in the sump one zip tie and plugged it in. I doubt it will last 20 years but I hope to be around to find out. It’s been going about 10 so far.

I also looked into two switches with a relay but this sump project is on hold because the house is at 63F so I have to reassemble the furnace ductwork. I've started too many projects at one time.
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Old 06-21-2014, 06:18 PM  
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Found a 15A rated Microswitch in my junkbox which ought to be able to reliably switch a pump that pulls a measured 5.3A. Had two smaller 5A Microswitches but this is a motor load.

Half of a pillbottle displaces enough water weight to operate this switch. My idea is that the whole switch assembly sits on top of the sump and is removeable for checking the float for leaks and proper operation.

An open-bottom flapper valve did not displace enough water but maybe resists chlorine better than a pillbottle.

120v will be on this switch and it's only a half-inch or so above the floor surface so I'll have a loop of grounded wire so if there is a flood that the pump can't handle (unlikely) the lion's share of current will go to this "ground loop" and not into the basement flood water.

A record rainfall for my area is 8" and we had 4" some time ago which gave a 2" rise in my sump water level, so with 8" it still will not flood the basement unless it goes over several days.

Maybe I can scrounge up an 120v audible alarm wired in parallel with the pump so I know what's happening, until I'm comfortable with this setup.

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Old 06-22-2014, 06:47 PM  
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I like to run the source of switched power to a duplex outlet and plug the pump into it. I take the other half of the outlet and plug an old clock into it. Set it to 12 and the clock will run when the pump runs. Easy way to keep track of pump run time and how much water you are moving.


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