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Old 01-24-2008, 08:29 AM  
travelover
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Originally Posted by UnknownVT View Post
Got you -
my current one is nylon/plastic -
I'll look for nylon/plastic
or something non-magnetic
(although stainless steel is still magnetic).

Thanks,
In my experience, stainless steel is not magnetic. At least when I sort nuts and bolts, the stainless don't get picked up by the magnet.


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Old 01-24-2008, 09:34 AM  
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Got you -
my current one is nylon/plastic -
I'll look for nylon/plastic
or something non-magnetic
(although stainless steel is still magnetic).

Thanks,
My first choice would be chrome plated brass, or unplated brass. Some stainless will resist rusting, but as you said some grades are slightly magnetic. That's why I try to go with brass or Chrome plated brass.

Good Luck!


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Old 01-24-2008, 09:35 AM  
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In my experience, stainless steel is not magnetic. At least when I sort nuts and bolts, the stainless don't get picked up by the magnet.
Most SS Bolts are non-magnetic, but some SS parts are slightly magnetic. It depends on the grade of stainless.
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Old 01-24-2008, 12:23 PM  
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Thank you again for the tips.

I didn't realize that the horizontal pop-up activator rod could be that critical - so many thanks for the advice - like I said my current one is nylon-plastic which obviously does/did not rust/corrode.

The top drain flange that broke -

- feels nice and heavy, all metal, non-magnetic, may be chrome-plated copper(?) - and (pleading ignorance) seems of high quaility -
nevertheless it corroded/broke at the threads - probably the worst point to fail ...

Re: leaking plug - my second bathroom has a basin/sink that has a slowly leaking plug - I found the following page -

Repair for a Leaky Drain Plug | Bathroom Sinks | Bathrooms ...

It was simple enough to do - but it didn't stop the slow leak - I guess the plug and flange face probably no longer seal properly.

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Old 01-24-2008, 03:20 PM  
UnknownVT
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Most SS Bolts are non-magnetic, but some SS parts are slightly magnetic. It depends on the grade of stainless.
This is right - some stainless steels are indeed non-magnetic -
but not all stainless steels are non-magnetic.

This stands to reason, since steel and stainless steels are mainly still iron/ferrite - which is strongly magnetic.

eg: a lot of stainless steel cutlery is strongly magnetic.

Try a Swiss Army Knife which is one of most rust resistant cutlery steels - it jumps at a magnet -
even the very common 18/8 stainless table flatware cutlery is very strongly magnetic.

However there is a class of stainless steels that are non-magnetic -
"There are different types of stainless steels: when nickel is added, for instance, the austenite structure of iron is stabilized. This crystal structure makes such steels non-magnetic and less brittle at low temperatures."

Austenite stainless steel is paramagnetic -
- Wikipedia explains in Austenite -

" Austenite transformation and Curie point
In many magnetic alloys, the Curie point, the temperature at which magnetic materials cease to behave magnetically, occurs at nearly the same temperature as the austenite transformation. This behavior is attributed to the paramagnetic nature of austenite, while both martensite and ferrite are strongly ferromagnetic."

But paramagnetism is not necessarily non-magnetic -
as the 18/8 stainless steel cited above is a very common Austenite stainless steel - but it is still very strongly magnetic.

From Wikipedia on Magnet -

"Most popularly found in paper clips, paramagnetism is exhibited in substances which do not emit fields by themselves, but which, when exposed to a magnetic field, reinforce that field by becoming magnetized themselves, and thus get attracted to that field. A good example for this behavior can be found in a bucket of nails - if you pick up a single nail, you can expect that other nails will not follow. However, you can apply an intense magnetic field to the bucket, pick up one nail, and find that many will come with it. "

Since most paper clips are supposed to be paramagnetic -
we know that it is still attracted by magnets - ie: magnetic.
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:36 PM  
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Default Argh!!

I need to replace my pop up unit, but I cannot get the drain flange off!!

It's nice brass pipe and I have no leaks, however the inner rod (the part that connects to the pop up plug) has rusted and is basically gone.

I'm hoping I can find an exact replacement, because I may have to destroy the flange in order to get it off. Any suggestions for removing it without destroying it (or the sink!)

I have minimal experience at plumbing and not the best tools, so any help would be appreciated.

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Old 12-29-2009, 01:57 AM  
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In my experience with stainless alloys, the 300 series of stainless steels are non-magnetic. 303 304 304L 316 321 and 347 are examples.

With knives, the ability to be hardened is the ability to hold a sharp edge. However, most every quality knife blade stainless is magnetic. example: Grade 440 is popular, and there are many "specialty" blends. Knives need a hard, yet tough blade, to maintain sharpness and not be brittle and prone to breakage. Hence the secrecy surrounding alloys and heat treat processes developed by fine knife fabrication outfits. For more insight, research Japanese sword making.

Also Precipitation Hardening stainless steels, such as 15-5 and 17-4 are magnetic. These "stainlesses" will also rust if left to the elements over time.

Additional information: 300 series stainless steels are not heat-treatable to higher hardness values. The magnetic stainless (15-5 17-4 and 17-7 Ph types) are able to be heat treated and obtain more hardness.

I believe the carbon content is what allows heat treating to be obtained in "stainless" steels.

Last thought - observation: 300 series are very corrosion resistant, 316 sst can be submerged in boiling acid without ill effect, at least long enough to "eat" a broken carbon steel tap out of the hole it broke in.

Salt water will corrode even 300 series stainless, but this is due more to an electrical effect eating away at it than a chemical reaction. Salt water boating friends can tell you more.

For maximum "stainless" performance, a process called "Passivation" is performed on finished parts made from stainless steel. The matal parts are submerged in an acid solution for a period of time. This removes surface contaminates such as microscopic bits of forging dies, cutting tools, and abrasive media trapped and galled into the metals surface, and leaves the metal with a "passive" layer caused by the reaction that protects the raw metal beneath from the onslaught of corrosion or oxidation.
Passivation is mandatory to gain the full benifit of the corrosion resistant properties of the 300 series stainless steels.

Way more than any sane person would want to know, but then again ...... Hope someone finds this useful.

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Old 12-29-2009, 01:59 AM  
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By the way, this thread allowed me to repair my sink drain in one fell swoop. Cudos to the posters.

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Old 01-17-2010, 09:10 AM  
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I can't believe how specific everyone has been. This will be my very first plumbing repair. I may be proven wrong when I get into it - but I think i can do this. As green as I am to ANY home repair - can anyone suggest what tools I will need to remove the current assembly and reinstall? I have a Craftsman RoboGrip and husband has various tools in the garage - though he is not around to help this weekend. I will get the putty - etc. mentioned previously. Anything else I might need? This may be sad - but I'm excited about tackling this. Also - play-off game at noon - should I even think about trying this before kick-off?

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Old 04-28-2010, 12:59 PM  
rmcpherson9292
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Default Same problem

First if all I'm not a plumber and would let do nothing and he is dead.. Now..
I want take metal pipe off on the drain, but it seems to be glued to the PVC elbow pipe.. The reason for this is I think it is leaking from the gasket Just below the sink drain. I want to replace it, it is old.. Can someone tell me how to do this.. Do saw the thing off,? will it come loose just reall tight?
or any other help ...
I would appreciate the help...Thanks in Advance...



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