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-   -   Bathroom sink drain, not enough clearance from wall (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/bathroom-sink-drain-not-enough-clearance-wall-6957/)

DaringDamsel 06-27-2009 03:35 AM

Bathroom sink drain, not enough clearance from wall
 
When I bought this house, The original drain was not screwed together. Instead, it was held in place by massive amounts of caulking. (And I don't remember, but likely duct tapa also!) I never was able to get the drain properly hooked up. I just let it drain into a bucket.

I had purchased a pedestal sink awhile back, and I am now installing it. The same problem exists. I cannot return the sink and faucets, because it was purchased too long ago.

The drain pipe coming from the wall ends in a 90 degree bend downward. (I don't know if this is always true.) The wall itself is plaster, and I had thought it was the original plaster. I did not see evidence of a patch.

Are there different dimensions for the distance from the wall to the drain on different sinks? I did not see this information, so I had thought this must be standard. I would hate to need to buy another sink (and possibly faucets.) But I don't know how else to solve this problem properly.

How do I extend this drain pipe further out from the wall?

Also, the plaster was bad. A friend repaired the hole with a patch of drywall (the green kind.) But now this problem exists, so the wall may need to be opened up again.

The house was built in 1942.

Thanks,
DD

inspectorD 06-27-2009 06:54 AM

hmmm
 
1 Attachment(s)
A Pic would help to get a really fast answer.
Sounds like you just need to get a piece of waste line at the plumbing supply store to extend to your tailpiece. For this you need to make what is called a trap.
Attachment 1311

majakdragon 06-27-2009 08:00 AM

I would remove the elbow and replace it with a Desanco fitting. This will thread onto the existing pipe and has a slip-joint connection. Then you can buy a longer pipe that will slide into the Desanco and uses the slip-joint nut to hold it in place and make a wtertight seal (with the gasket).

DaringDamsel 06-27-2009 10:05 PM

Sorry,
I don't have a camera.

InspectorD, Extending the tailpiece would help adjust for a problem in sink height (which I also have, in this case!) My problem is the distance from the wall to the sink drain. I need about an inch more room. The pipe from the wall does not stick out far enough.

My friend (a man with good arm strength) tried to remove the stub out with a pipe wrench, but he couldn't budge it. But he didn't grasp it at the flats, but around the pipe itself. The flat part where the wrench would properly fit is inside the lathe. Even if we open up the wall again, we would need an awfully big hole to get the wrench on the flats (I am not sure if this is a proper term for this, if there is a proper term.)

I might just bring a tape measure to the store, and look for a smaller sink, one with less distance from the back to the drain. I was stupid to buy a fixture without reading up on installation first, but I don't own a car, and the opportunity to bring it home was there. (And I was a bit bullied, by my ex-BF who I was with.)

DaringDamsel 06-27-2009 10:11 PM

Sorry,
I don't have a camera.

InspectorD, Extending the tailpiece would help adjust for a problem in sink height (which I also have, in this case!) My problem is the distance from the wall to the sink drain. I need about an inch more room. The pipe from the wall does not stick out far enough.

My friend (a man with good arm strength) tried to remove the stub out with a pipe wrench, but he couldn't budge it. But he didn't grasp it at the flats, but around the pipe itself. The flat part where the wrench would properly fit is inside the lathe. Even if we open up the wall again, we would need an awfully big hole to get the wrench on the flats (I am not sure if this is a proper term for this, if there is a proper term.)

I might just bring a tape measure to the store, and look for a smaller sink, one with less distance from the back to the drain. I was stupid to buy a fixture without reading up on installation first, but I don't own a car, and the opportunity to bring it home was there. (And I was a bit bullied, by my ex-BF who I was with.)

inspectorD 06-28-2009 07:03 AM

yup
 
your correct, your tailpiece is the one that comes down from the basin, your trap is next, then your trap arm is the piece you are refering to.
This can be extended with a coupler, or a connector pipe that fits over the old pipe, and the new pipe. It is all plastic , so you may need some glue to attach the two. Certain glue for curtain pipes. Measure the diameter, and how far you need to come off the wall. Then take this info to the plumbing dept to look at your options. Plastic waste line can be cut with a handsaw.
You can do it.
Getting a book on plumbing at the library is also an option.:)

DaringDamsel 06-28-2009 03:27 PM

The trap arm is metal. I spoke to my son today. He recommended that I cut the elbow from the trap arm, and extend it he said that I can get a sleeve that has hose clamps, or some kind of extender.

You are right, about the plumbing book. I was in a state of panic on Friday. and I was afraid my friend might continue to work on it, and do something irreversable, make a larger problem out of it. I wanted some reassurance that the problem was fixable, and not unique!

Honestly, I think I was being too "feminine" on Friday with my friend. I wish I would have told him that I would test or measure the assembly of the sink drain first,. And THEN fix the wall. Instead, I just kept reminding (nagging?) him, by saying, "Remember there was a problem with the old drain, are you SURE this will work?" And I expected him to figure out himself what he was doing wrong. I did go into the kitchen and wash dishes, while he fixated himself on repairing the wall.

Honestly, I am thinking that I should just rip out EVERYTHING, except perhaps the tub. The tub surround is cracking, there is a wooden frame window on the tub wall. I love the natural light, but there has to be a better way! The only light fixture is a single bulb, and it isn't even centered over the medicine cabinet. (Which is not centered over the sink.)

If I choose to do a new floor later, it will likely change the sink height. (Or I guess I could install the flooring it with the sink in place and work around it.)

DD

inspectorD 06-28-2009 06:26 PM

yup
 
That is how a bath remodel starts.;)

You can use what is called a hub connector, some are made by fernco.

DaringDamsel 06-29-2009 01:09 PM

HaHa!

I spent all of Sunday afternoon looking at bathtubs, including ofuro tubs, and steam showers. As well as looking up info on refinishing my tub. or lining it.

I have come to the conclusion that if I need to wax a refinishing job, I may as well just try to remove the stains, and wax the tub as it is, and see it makes things a little better, and easier to clean.

DD

glennjanie 06-29-2009 08:04 PM

Hello DD:
Inspector D has included a real nice picture of what you want to end up with. Majakdragon has mentioned a noteable part that will help a lot. When you want to take the elbow off the pipe, screw a piece of pipe into it, as long as possible and do the tugging on it. The threads may loosen at the elbow or in the wall at (what should be) a tee: if the elbow unscrews, ask for a threaded trap adapter and if the whole trap arm unscrews back in there you will need a threaded connector (plastic) which you can use to continue to the sink with plastic. Either way, the trap arm should end with a trap adapter which will accomodate the trap tubing which you can buy at the home store. The trap on a pedistal sink is normally hidden in the back of the pedistal. When you are finished, you should see nothing but the trap adapter and the final piece of the trap assembly.
Glenn


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