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Old 06-29-2009, 08:12 PM  
glennjanie
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Different subject DD:
I recently saw Dolly Parton in concert right after she had received an honarrary Doctorate from University of Tennessee. "So now, I'm Doctor Dolly and I know what you mean when you call me DD."
Glenn



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Old 07-01-2009, 03:30 AM  
DaringDamsel
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OOPS! I did not think of that when I chose the name! [BLUSHING].



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Old 07-01-2009, 03:57 AM  
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My friend took his patch off of the wall. And bought something that looks like it will work. I guess we should test it, because it might be too long. I see from the photo that the trap can be installed at an angle to adjust for distance, but my pedestal might be in the way. Also, I do not like that that the pedestal is only held to the wall by two bolts or screws. And the instructions say that it is okay to just bolt it through the drywall. Is this good enough? I suppose that the pedestal is what is supporting the weight, and the wall bolts are just to keep the sink from moving?

So far, we have gotten the trap arm off. My friend stuck his finger in the tee, and it was pretty nasty with crud. Looks like mostly rust and hair. So I found my snake, and have been trying to clear it, since it is easier to do it now, with the pipe open. I figure that I will be done when the snake hits water. (This drain hasn't been connected in a long time.) OOPS, I just realized, I had been flushing the toilet occasionally, thinking this would clear anything knocked down the drain pipe. But I never checked whether the toilet is "upstream" of the sink.

He talked about plugging the drain, and sticking a hose down it from the roof. But I can see that what I think is the vent sticking out from the roof has a huge hole. I suppose I should replace that also before I fix the wall? He said to just cut off the part above the roof, but I don't see why the damage would only be on the exposed part. Anyway, I do not want to find out if there are any other holes in the vent pipe with this experiment.

DD

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Old 07-01-2009, 09:00 AM  
Redwood
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Yes you should replace any sections of the drain and vent pipe that have holes in them.

I would also not recommend attaching the sink through just drywall. It will tear of the wall in no time at all. You should have a 2X8 in the wall behind the sink for it to attach to with lag screws.

This is sounding like the project is growing much bigger than originally anticipated.

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Old 07-01-2009, 09:38 PM  
DaringDamsel
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The sink does not have a bracket to install it with, and it said that it is okay to do this. But since the wall has a 2 x 3 foot hole in it, putting in a board to brace it won't be a big deal! But since the force isn't really distributed over the back of the sink by a bracket, I am thinking that the bolt holes on the sink may not last too long, anyway. Well, when I bought this sink, I figured that all vitreous sinks were the same, except for perhaps finish details.

I FINALLY went to the library today, and grabbed a pile of plumbing and bathroom remodel books, and one of them said not to buy a sink like mine, where the pedestal supports the weight of the basin, because they are impossible to fix later. (And I am not sure that I will be able to reach in and unscrew the trap, without disassembling the sink!

So actually, that makes my project a bit easier, since I have no motivation to redo the entire wall, if the sink and /or wall may not last for awhile.

Although it is surprising how long I will live with a 'temporary' fix at times!

I did buy a low- end Moen faucet, mostly because my father bought Moen faucets, and he was a plumber. But I really did think that all sinks of a given material were of the same quality for longevity.

I think I will post another thread on the topic of my vent pipe, for the benefit of other newbies.

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Old 07-02-2009, 09:39 AM  
DaringDamsel
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Default Does this say, what I think it does?

I read my city code, posted below, I am not allowed to even unscrew the trap of my sink without obtaining a permit. Am I reading this correctly? I have marked the phrases I think apply.

Also, my friend said that the part he bought is ABS (It is black) One book said that few jurisdictions allow this anymore. Wow do I find the appropriate section of my local code?

DD

25.05.010 Required.
(Amended by Ordinance Nos. 170576, 170811 and 178578, effective September 1, 2004.) Excepting fire systems provided for in Title 31, Fire Regulations, a permit, or minor label as outlined in Section 25.04.040, shall be obtained for the installation, construction, alteration, or repair of any plumbing or sewage system, fire hose valve, water supply system, water supply well, rainwater harvesting system, sewage holding tank, fire hose cabinet, or the installing of any device if the device requires either water supply, or waste connection to drainage system or both; of plugging of sewer where a building has been wrecked or moved; for removing plumbing fixtures and sealing openings; all of the above coming under the regulations of this Title and the Oregon Plumbing Specialty Code. As used in this Section, the word "repair" does not apply to ordinary repairs to faucets or valves, or to the clearing of obstructions from a fixture, sewer, or waste pipe, if there be no disconnecting of the fixture or device, or if there be no opening of, or cutting into, the sewer or waste pipe or fittings.

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Old 07-02-2009, 12:36 PM  
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Hello DD:
Don't be embarrased about the initials; Dolly sure isn't and she has a lot of fun with it.

Yes, the code says what you think it says. At least you didn't change the meter base and have to have the power company to come out and re-connect you only after you have an inspection.

Does the Portland building authority normally make surprise inspections of plumbing? Make sure there are no boxes laying out in the yard to draw attention and don't change the vent on the roof. To cover the hole around the vent you need a plastic flashing that can be obtained at the nearby Lowe's or Home Depot or wherever you bought the sink.

As far as the sink holding up with the two bolts; just remember it is not for sitting on, jumping on or other extremes. It is for holding a basin of water only and that doesn't take so much.

Glenn

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Old 07-02-2009, 01:16 PM  
Redwood
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It is relatively painless to pull a permit, have the work inspected and be Completely Legit...

It sure would be better than having a butchered up hack job come back to bite you when you sell the house years down the road.

But Either way is okay with me...
I have made plenty of money fixing hacked up DIYer plumbing that got gigged on a home inspection....
Imagine doing a job that never quite works right from day one...
Putting up with it for years...
Then one day as you sell the house paying big $$$ to have it done right for someone else...

For some reason the logic fails me...



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