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Old 04-28-2009, 10:56 AM  
Christian
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Thanks guys.

Got this done a little while ago and it looks much better.



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Old 05-18-2009, 05:10 PM  
Bronx bathtub desperado
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I have hired people to recaulk my tub because it gets so gross and then starts to disintegrate. Within one year!!!!! the same scenario recurs. This time i am doing it myself. and i am going to try what you say. This enamel tub is old!!!! it didn't always have a shower installed, so i am sure that now that we installed a shower head, that is why the caulk keeps getting black, as the water hits it. we put a shower curtain on the window, so part of the wall (inside the shower, doesn't get the water hitting it, but the caulking keeps turning black and then melting away.) any thing else ishould know before i get started? thanks!



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Old 05-18-2009, 05:51 PM  
nukes00
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Default Ummm, GBR

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Originally Posted by GBR View Post
If the new caulking also separates, you might try this. Start over, cleaning,etc., preparing for new caulk, then........ fill the tub with water, with your added weight in it, then caulk. The sub floor would possibly lower to the load point that keeps breaking the caulk seal. Obey cure times as was stated above. Be safe, GBR
How do you keep the water warm for the time it takes the caulk to cure?
Is it OK to caulk finger tips and toes so they won't wrinkle?
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Old 05-18-2009, 08:46 PM  
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Bronx & Nukes:

This is probably about the dozenth or so DIY forum I've posted on, and it seems that getting silicone caulk to stick to walls and bathtubs is a UNIVERSAL problem. It seems that DIY'ers and new home owners everywhere cannot seem to get their silicone caulk to stick.

Well, I own a small apartment block, and if I had as much problem getting silicone caulk to stick to my tubs and ceramic tiling, I would have a full time job simply replacing the silicone caulk on my tubs over and over and over again.

The fact that I have sufficient free time to post on this forum is proof that it can be done. All you have to do is ensure that you get ALL of the old silicone off the tub and tile. If you do that, as described in my post on the first page of this thread, you will have absolutely no problem getting the silicone to stick tenaciously to both enameled steel tubs and ceramic tiles.

Bronx: Yes, you are right. The reason why the showering causes the caulk to mildew much more rapidly is because the water will drip down the walls of the shower for a long time after showering. This provides a steady stream of water to support the growth of mildew. By contrast, when you have a bath, you don't often get water splashing on the silicone, and you don't get a steady supply of it for a long time after bathing like you do after showering.
99% of the time you can clean your silicone caulk so that it looks as good as the day it was put in. Just follow the directions in my post on the first page of this thread. If you do decide to recaulk, it's MOST important that you remove ALL of the old silicone caulk from the wall and tub. Nothing sticks well to silicone caulk, not even new silicone caulk, and THAT is the reason why people have problems getting silicone caulk to stick. If you follow the directions in that long post of mine on the first page, you will be able to confidently remove all of the old silicone caulk. Once you do that, then excellent adhesion of the new silicone caulk to both your tub and tile is assured.

Nukes: Forget filling the tub with water. The solution is to ensure that you remove ALL of the old silicone caulk before applying new silicone caulk. Caulking a bathtub that's full of water is almost certainly going to result in your trying to caulk wet tiles and a wet tub, with predicable results.

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Old 05-19-2009, 05:36 AM  
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Thanks Nestor, I'll try the dry cleaning.

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Old 03-30-2011, 08:04 AM  
garydale
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I've been trying to get a good caulk job in both of my bathrooms for some time now. Some observations I've made:
1) Don't fill the tub with water first. At least in my (properly installed) tubs, it has no impact on the shape of the tub but can get the joint area wet.
2) The commercial silicon removal product (siliconbegone)is not any better than the far cheaper mineral spirits. Moreover, mineral spirits are easier to work with other than the need for really good ventilation.
3) Silicon caulk (at least the Dap tube variety) doesn't stick as well as the Mono latex caulk (also sold in tubes). I believe the silicon caulk is much fussier about the surface it will stick to.

After my last failure with silicon, I found myself trying an older tube of Mono latex. So far it's holding up whereas the Dap silicon caulk would start losing adhesion after a few days of my using the shower.

It only takes one small failure to let water in behind the caulk then it spreads, eventually ruining the entire job.

If water has gotten in behind the caulk, it may wick up the wall behind the tiles. If this has happened, let the tub dry for a few weeks before trying to caulk. Because caulk dries from the outside, the inside bits are more susceptible to any water that may be present in the wall. A bead of fresh caulk will prevent any moisture in the wall from evaporating, guaranteeing failure.

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Old 03-31-2011, 09:25 AM  
Redwood
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Polyseamseal and Phenoseal would be my top choices.

Apply let dry for 24 hours and your good to go for many years.

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Old 04-09-2011, 01:30 AM  
LearningAsI_Go
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To: Nestor_Kelebay:

Thank you so much for posting such detailed information! This weekend, I will be attempting this project for the first time and the posted information was extremely helpful!

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Old 04-16-2011, 01:17 PM  
GlenGallo
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Great post Nestor regarding how to prepare and apply caulk I have nothing to add and after reading your post I learned some new tricks.

My experience has been that if the wall is wet behind the tile or tub the caulk fails to setup correctly.

I will often run a dehumidifier overnight to try and dry the area before applying the caulk



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