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Old 10-19-2011, 03:18 PM  
isola96
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Cool thanks for posting link



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Old 10-25-2011, 02:43 PM  
swindmill
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I have the valves, but I haven't yet ordered the trim, and I wasn't planning on getting it until the tile is in. I also have all of the PEX and shark/gator bite fittings that I'll need. As you can tell from the picture, I'm dealing with a rather oddly framed wall where the plumbing will be. It's original (100 yr old) true 2x4 framing with new 2x4 framing laid flat against it (to save space). I'll have to carve a little bit of foam out of the insulated wall to fit the valves in, and add some cross supports to mount them to. My concern at this point I'm sure is very basic, but here it is: How do I ensure that the valves are mounted at the correct depth? I can't put in cross supports until I know exactly how deep they need to be, and I have to take into account the 1/2" hardie backer and the thickness of the tile. Any advice is appreciated.



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Old 10-25-2011, 05:26 PM  
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This is your shower body system you re referring too what type is it? Do you have photo of it?

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Old 10-26-2011, 06:02 AM  
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Here are the two valves I'll be using:



I have drop ears for the shower head and hand shower.

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Old 10-26-2011, 12:50 PM  
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I've been searching around, and apparently, my problem is not unique. It looks like some people, using copper pipe, only secure the valve from the front side of the wall. Others estimate the depth of the backer board and tile and put in a block accordingly. It looks like I'd be better off getting the trim before putting in a block, so that I can get an accurate depth estimate. If anyone has any better ideas for me, please chime in.

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Old 10-26-2011, 01:14 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swindmill
I've been searching around, and apparently, my problem is not unique. It looks like some people, using copper pipe, only secure the valve from the front side of the wall. Others estimate the depth of the backer board and tile and put in a block accordingly. It looks like I'd be better off getting the trim before putting in a block, so that I can get an accurate depth estimate. If anyone has any better ideas for me, please chime in.
You want to set up your plumping system before install durock backer board.

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Old 10-26-2011, 01:19 PM  
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I'm leaving open the areas that I need access to. I ended up going with hardie board. It was more highly recommended by several sources and also feels more rigid. So, I've got .42" for hardie board, and about .5" for tile and thin set. The valve is exactly 3.5" deep (to the front edge of the plaster guard), so a support block would need to be recessed about 2.5" inches in order for the plaster guard to sit flush with the finished wall.

I'm finding a lot less on how to get the depth of the diverter valve set, and it does not have a plaster guard or any sort of guide on how deep to set it.



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