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Old 08-02-2011, 04:04 PM  
murph52
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I don't think the hub flex coupling will work since the crack is right at the fitting. That coupling can only join pipe to pipe (not pipe to a pipe fitting).



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Old 08-02-2011, 04:30 PM  
Toadfish
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I don't think the hub flex coupling will work since the crack is right at the fitting. That coupling can only join pipe to pipe (not pipe to a pipe fitting).
No you are wrong.
There's more than enough flex in the coupling to ensure a water tight seal. We are talking drain lines not water under pressure. While this is not the greatest fix it sounds like something the homeowner can handle.
The proper way would be to replace the whole assembly or drill out the broken pipe section and replace.


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Old 08-02-2011, 04:57 PM  
kok328
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The easiest way to repair this is to use one of these. 3 in. EPDM Rubber Hub x Hub Flex Coupling - 808 c156-33 at The Home Depot only in 2". Cut the pipe at the leak and slide the coupling over the pipe and tighten. Have a cold beer.
Hmmm ... ya know that just might do the trick. However, you still have the A/C evaporator improperly tied in. You could try to install a P-trap in the condensate line but, it might get sucked dry by the main pipe.
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Old 08-02-2011, 05:16 PM  
Redwood
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Oh Boy...

A plain neoprene coupling...
Not exactly what I would recommend....

Stick with the banded coupling that I mentioned earlier...
The additional support from the band will keep the pipes lined up properly so that the line doesn't clog...



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Old 08-02-2011, 05:22 PM  
Redwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murph52 View Post
I don't think the hub flex coupling will work since the crack is right at the fitting. That coupling can only join pipe to pipe (not pipe to a pipe fitting).
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Originally Posted by Toadfish View Post
No you are wrong.
There's more than enough flex in the coupling to ensure a water tight seal. We are talking drain lines not water under pressure. While this is not the greatest fix it sounds like something the homeowner can handle.
The proper way would be to replace the whole assembly or drill out the broken pipe section and replace.
No Toadfish you are wrong...

Murph52 is correct the couplings are designed for pipe to pipe connections only and that is the only approved use under code....
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Old 08-02-2011, 06:17 PM  
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No Toadfish you are wrong...

Murph52 is correct the couplings are designed for pipe to pipe connections only and that is the only approved use under code....
yea ok, The home owner is calling the inspector now for approval.
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Old 08-03-2011, 09:03 AM  
Redwood
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Hackitty Hackitty Hack Hack Hack....

Why does my drain keep plugging up?

Could it be this 50% offset at the joint with the Fernco?

There is a reason for the plumbing code....
It is the minimum acceptable standard.....
Plumbing should work.... Right?

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Old 08-03-2011, 09:36 AM  
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Seems like replacing this assembly isn't that much harder or more expensive than using one of these couplings, and it is a nice, relatively simple, first project since it's just replacing what's already there. Replacing the assembly would also possibly give the OP the chance to convert that existing s-trap into a p-trap-- that's a bigger siphon concern to me than the (future) a/c trap.

For the a/c, as long as it's a 2" p-trap I think it should be safe from siphoning. The catch is joining abs and pvc. If it were me, I'd set it up as an air gap drain (like a washing machine drain): build in a trap between the wye and a new 12" vertical 2" drain. Then just sleeve a few inches of pvc in the top of the abs, eliminating the need for a reducer and any cementing. The only (tiny) concern in my mind would be that the trap would evaporate dry in the winter.

Matt

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Old 08-03-2011, 09:39 AM  
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Hackitty Hackitty Hack Hack Hack....

Why does my drain keep plugging up?

Could it be this 50% offset at the joint with the Fernco?

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Old 08-03-2011, 01:15 PM  
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Default "Hub Saver"

They make a tool now that is designed to drill out the pipe from a cemented joint. I'm pretty sure it's called a "Hub Saver" but go in to any plumbing supply house, not the big box stores, and they should have one. I've used it and it's saved me a lot of time and work. Cut the vertical pipe about 2' above the crack, and directly above the hub of the fitting. Use the Hub Saver as directed...make sure to hold the drill in a VERY straight line to the hub. Glue a new 2" piece of pipe into the hub and install a using a Fernco or repair union (connector) at the top.



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