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Old 03-03-2012, 08:04 AM  
inspectorD
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Since nobody else will, I will answer your actual question.

1. Shut off your house water at the mainline.

2. Disconnect the nut end of the connector first. This is the chrome nut that attaches to the faucet. It should only be hand tight, but some installers will wrench them on. A 6 or 8 inch adjustable wrench will work fine. For the toilet it's the large white plastic nut connected to the toilet tank.

3. Rotate the valve on the pipe counter-clockwise with a slight pull while turning.

4. After about 6 or 8 twists, the valve should turn itself completely off of the pipe.

5. When the valve is removed, you'll see about a half inch of the pipe tip will have these spiral scars. They look almost like a fine pipe thread. They're not. They're caused by the gripping teeth inside the valve when the valve is rotated.
This is the important part. When you go to re-install your valves (they are re-usable if there is no damage to the O-ring inside), cut-away the scarred portion of the pipe. If you can't, then just smooth the pipe surface with emery cloth or a fine sand paper before re-installing your valve.

6. Push the valve back onto the pipe with a slight turn of the wrist a full 1 and one-quarter inches. It works well to measure and mark the pipe. Try and avoid "screwing" the valve onto the pipe. Just push it on with a slight turn of the wrist to the 1-1/4" mark.

And good luck with your circulator pump, I'm sure you will be back to ask more later.



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Old 03-03-2012, 03:22 PM  
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Thanks inspector D finely someone with information I can use. I also read somewhere that if the method you described doesn’t work; I can use a Dremel to cut them in half and pry them apart. I have decided to remove the values and add some compression fittings. I’m going to need a tee and a new shutoff value so I can hookup the Recirculation pump. I wish I had copper but everything PEX & plastic values. Lowe's has a bunch of fitting for PEX piping, so I will figure it all out once I remove the Values. Going to put in an outlet under the sink first, got a have juice.
Thanks for your Help!



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Old 03-05-2012, 08:30 AM  
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Good luck on this one!

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Old 03-05-2012, 10:45 AM  
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I think speedbumb was right. if you install a circulator it needs to be on the main line or will have no affect. Check your accustat and your pressure on water heater.

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Old 03-05-2012, 01:59 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isola96 View Post
I think speedbumb was right. if you install a circulator it needs to be on the main line or will have no affect. Check your accustat and your pressure on water heater.
I think if you and speedbumb would read the link below from This Old House. You would have a better understanding of how this system saves money and water. It takes two/ three minutes for hot water to reach my bathroom. I have no idea how many gallons of water just going down the drain, wasted. My bathroom is the furthest from the hot water heater.


http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,1558520-2,00.html
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:56 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdupp View Post
I think if you and speedbumb would read the link below from This Old House. You would have a better understanding of how this system saves money and water. It takes two/ three minutes for hot water to reach my bathroom. I have no idea how many gallons of water just going down the drain, wasted. My bathroom is the furthest from the hot water heater.


http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,1558520-2,00.html
Sdupp you are right. i have installed many circulating pump on both commercial
and house hold. If you install under the sink and a 1/2 return back to bottom
of heater through a check valve Then the hot water will flow from the heater, to under the sink and back to the heater. If there is any water appliances beyond this point , then they will get hot water faster also.
Like i said before, insulate all the lines so you save energy.
I don't know anything about theses valves you have. But your pump should work fine. It might help if you was to show a water line diagram. Paul
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Old 03-06-2012, 06:49 AM  
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It sounds foolish to install a pump under a sink when you could easily install it at the heater instead. Unless you like crawling around under a cabinet letting your Plumbers Crack hang out. Either way, you still have to install the return line.

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Old 03-06-2012, 08:03 AM  
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The return line is the cold line.

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Old 03-06-2012, 10:04 AM  
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I'm not going to pretend to understand what these guys are trying to pull, but if your sending hot water backwards through the cold water line, aren't other cold water faucets going to be letting out hot or warm water instead of cold? Honestly, that's the dumbest thing I have ever seen. And talk about wasting hot water. Did they mention insulation?

Another thing. Any engineer or inventer who calls a Water Heater a "HOT" Water Heater, can't be thinking too clearly.

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Old 03-06-2012, 11:06 AM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedbump
I'm not going to pretend to understand what these guys are trying to pull, but if your sending hot water backwards through the cold water line, aren't other cold water faucets going to be letting out hot or warm water instead of cold?
your right speedbump need a demestic return line for the hot water line to make the circulator to work properly doesn't work the other way.
The device the op is installing is making the fauset lines its self the loop but to each there own.


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