TallPaul

Hi,

I live in Jacksonville, FL. I have an offgrade house with concrete block walls. I am considering a complete renovation of my kitchen including cabinets and plumbing. The current location of the 2" vent stack (that goes straight up through the attic through the roof, etc) is in an interior stud wall as close to the outside block wall as possible. So the centerline of the vent stack is about 2.5" inside the inside ege of the drywall.

I want to move the sink so the centerline of the drain is 4 to 5 foot away from the corner of the room where the vent stack is. I see two ways of accomplishing this:

1. Sacrifice a LOT of cabinet space by running the drain line to the vent stack within the cabinet. So there would be a clear line of sight and working room from sink all the way down to the vent stack.

(or, and I think this will be not within code)

2. Run the drain through the floor BEFORE putting in the p-trap, with the p-trap in the offgrade area. This would make the horizontal drain line be in the offgrade space instead of in my cabinets. (EDIT: Can't do this. See my post below).

Ok, my gut tells me option #2 is not to code. Am I right?

Thanks!

Paul

Nestor_Kelebay

I don't know if wouldn't be against the code. It seems to me that there aren't any problems with a washing machine discharging into a stand pipe that has a p-trap 4 feet below.

To check, simply phone down to your local building inspector/plans examiner's office. They should have pamphlets there explaining the plumbing code requirements to home owners who are wanting to do their own renovations.

TallPaul

Thanks, Nestor! I'll do that tomorrow.

Redwood

Taking the drain through the floor to a trap will not fly!

You may extend the properly pitched dirty arm with 2" out 4-5' from the vent no problem.

or you can bring the vent over (code restrictions apply) install a trap then go through the floor to a drain.

TallPaul

Thanks, Redwood.

"You may extend the properly pitched dirty arm with 2" out 4-5' from the vent no problem." Yeah, that's option #1 above. I think it's 4' max with 1 1/4" and 5' max with 2" pvc. But like I mentioned, that chews up a lot of cabinet space. And this is a somewhat small kitchen to start with.

"or you can bring the vent over (code restrictions apply) install a trap then go through the floor to a drain." Same kind of problem. And I could install a new vent line, but aesthetically I can't think of a good way to do it. I've also got a window in the way for any new vertical vent pipe!

Paul

Redwood

I wasn't too clear on why it couldn't go in the wall...
My take was something about a block wall and a 2X4 wall inside of it?

Yes the restriction would be a flat vent below the flood rim of the sink...

TallPaul

Hi Redwood,

I have posted a birdseye view sketch of what I am talking about. Hopefully that will help.

Thanks!

Paul

TallPaul

FYI: Just talked with my city's permitting people. A trap must be installed within 24" of the sink, so I can't go through the floor first before adding the p-trap. The only exception is a washing machine, and he believed that was a max 38". I believe he thinks that's national code but don't hold me to it... but it's definitely the code for my city. Thanks,
Paul

Redwood

I think you could build that into the back of the cabinet without losing a lot of space. Just 45 it flat to the back wall of the cabinet...

The other alternative is using an AAV Air Admittance Valve which from what I understand FL Code is very liberal in their usage but IMHO you are much better off using a through the roof vent. I regard it a s Tin House on Wheels plumbing...

TallPaul

I'm not quite sure what you mean by "45 it flat to the back wall of the cabinet". Do you mean like in the pic below? That's a good suggestion, one I hadn't considered.... duhhhh!!! :-) If so, I have three followup questions:

1. If work needed to be done on the drain line, the base cabinet to the left of the sink would need to be removed, which could be problematic. Is there anything in the code stating how much access is required to the drain line in these situations? I doubt it (since it can go into walls) but thought I would ask.

2. Does the 45 add any 'EXTRA' length to the drain pipe length... kind of like in HVAC where bends and turns are an efficiency drain?

Thanks!

Paul