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Old 03-25-2011, 06:21 PM  
bange
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Default Powdercoat / Re-Pocelain Cast Iron Kitchen Sink

Hello all, I would like to re-porcelain my kitchen sink. Double basin with integral backsplash for wall mount faucet. Porcelain is worn at the drain holes, pitting around the bottom of bowls and worn center divider rail. Otherwise it is perfect. Problem is I cannot find anyone who can do this (Southern Calif.) The question may have been posed before but any merits to powdercoating a cast iron kitchen sink? I've read its a similar process as porcelain but the firing temp is around 400-500 degrees rather than 1350-1400 degrees. Result is surface is not as hard as porcelain but better than epoxy reglazing. Just wondering, are there other applications / methods that use a high firing finish?

Btw, the sink is not installed and can be transported. Any comments / suggestions appreciated.



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Old 03-26-2011, 01:23 AM  
Redwood
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Why not just get a new sink?

Are you emotionally attached to this one?



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Old 03-26-2011, 11:33 AM  
joecaption
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Powder coating is done over a metal surface not a hard porcilin surface.
A new sink would be the longest lasting idea.

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Old 04-01-2011, 04:16 PM  
BDSmith
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You can powder coat anything that will take 400* for 20 minutes (plus the time it takes for the part itself to get to 400* and cool off afterwards).

If you can't get a charge through it for the powder to stick you can heat the item up and shoot it hot so the powder melts and sticks when it hits. We did this on probably 30 plastic intake manifolds for cars, and the plastic ignition coils.

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Old 04-01-2011, 05:05 PM  
nealtw
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BD: Do you think it would stand up to the ware and tare of a sink?

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Old 04-01-2011, 10:09 PM  
BDSmith
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There are a few different powders. You can get a commercial powder that is made for high impact resistance and you'd be close to 100% okay. I'll be honest that nothing is like that ceramic coating that comes on appliances, sinks, etc.

IF it is cured correctly and IF the correct powder is used I'd feel confident in it. We did mostly custom car parts with all sorts of ridiculous colors so wear, impact resistance, and UV resistance was never an issue if the color was right. Because of that we never got into all the specifics with the commercial quality stuff but I know it's out there. Condos and apartments use it on their railings for example, but that's a UV resistant application that you don't need for a sink.

You can have them put a coat or two of clear powder on there also that would help. Car guys are a lot more anal about scratches but you can wet sand and buff that stuff out.

Go to someone that has a clue what's going on. There are a couple powder forums (ColumbiaCoatings has a good one) and you can find someone local that isn't just going to throw it in with another batch and guess that it is GTG. Plus you probably won't get charged and arm and a leg as the big commercial guys HATE cleaning their guns out to switch colors/powder for your one application.

I'm guessing you'd want it white. Cleaning the guns becomes 10x an issue because EVERYTHING shows up in white, so if you shot a darker color (pretty much any) you may or may not see it. We'd get guys that were holding parts in their hands and go "Oh man, what is that?" Put it 3 feet away under your hood and it's fine. Stuff they'd NEVER see if they weren't inspecting it before they installed it.

Hopefully that makes sense, I've had a couple too many beers tonight

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Old 04-01-2011, 10:12 PM  
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Here's a chart that should get you close. If the powder coater doesn't have a clue about the different powders I'd avoid them. Like I said, we never cared about all the factors as long as the color was right, but at least we knew there were other factors if the situation dictated it.


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