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Fiero2 · 03-05-2011, 09:45 AM

Both of my water shout off valves under the sink have developed a leak between the knobs and the valve body, and there is black stuff coming out of them when they are turned off/on. Which leads me to believe that the seals or valve itself is gone.

The valves are sweat fitted to the pipes, and are 30 years old. So should I rebuild or replace them new, with compression fittings? The water pipes are out form the floor so I have plenty of pipe to work with is it as simple as heating up the valve with a propane torch and removing the valve?

You guys know more than me, I have gotten some info from the net..

James

Redwood · 03-05-2011, 01:16 PM

I'd replace them with 1/4 ball valves.

Brasscraft and Dahl both make decent 1/4 turn straight and angle stop valves...

handyguys · 03-08-2011, 07:39 AM

Its pretty straight forward, easy and inexpensive to replace them. I wouldnt even un-solder them. Since you have plenty of pipe to work with I would just cut back right below the old valve and solder a new one on. You mention compression. I wouldn't do a compression style. if you aren't able to solder I would go with a 1/4 turn shutoff from Sharkbite. Its a slip on type fitting its sooo easy to use its ridiculous. It costs 2x or 3x the cost of a solder type valve but if you only have two to do then go for it.

On the other hand. If it were me. I would just replace the packing in the old valve. I'm cheap. You can get a package of graphite packing for a couple bucks and have at it. I would also put a new washer on while I had it apart. A pro plumber like Redwood would just go ahead and swap the valve because its faster, in some ways easier, and less potential for something to go wrong.

joecaption · 03-09-2011, 03:37 PM

HMM, spend over an hour trying to get off the rusted out screw holding the knob on, trying to remove the corroded packing nut, finding the right shape and size packing, removing the washer, replacing it if you happen to have the right size and regrinding the seat, then hoping it all does not leak.
Or Cut the pipe and install a whole new valve a 10 min. job.
Good luck trying to solder on a new fitting when the lines full of water. A compression fitting, or a Shark Bite type fitting will not leak and just slips right on.
DO not try and use a cheap gray plastic type shut off to try and save a few bucks. It will blow off and cost you far more in the long run.

handyguys · 03-09-2011, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption

HMM, spend over an hour trying to get off the rusted out screw holding the knob on, trying to remove the corroded packing nut, finding the right shape and size packing, removing the washer, replacing it if you happen to have the right size and regrinding the seat, then hoping it all does not leak.

hahah - Yeah, I wouldn't even attempt a repair if things were corroded. I would just use the packing that comes as a strand you wrap on if I didnt see the correct packing within a minute. I wouldn't even re-grind the seat, IMO if the seat is toast on such a valve then replace the valve.

Actually, first thing I would do is just see if tightening the packing nut doesn't fix the leak!

The repair would cost under a dollar. I know, time is money. I have the packing material in my plumbing box along with some washers and such. I don't have any spare valves at the moment. If if all I needed was a few turns of packing material I would be done before my truck even warmed up. Provided, as you say, the old valve isn't all corroded and junk.

Fiero2 · 03-10-2011, 03:13 PM

Thanks Guys, the problem was misdiagnosed after a good look i found the packing nut was a little loose and the supply hose was leaking. I replaced the hose with quality ones so right now no more leaks!

Jim