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Old 04-27-2010, 08:15 PM  
Redwood
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If the valve was close to the wall I'd worry a little and use a ferrule puller but in this case I see plenty of pipe which could easily be cut off if needed...

Some people make mountains out of mole hills...
It's just what they do best...



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Old 04-27-2010, 08:51 PM  
Nestor_Kelebay
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Originally Posted by Bud Cline View Post
Did anyone notice that the genius in that video never mentioned that after the water supply is turned off the next thing to do would be to drain the tank BEFORE BEFORE BEFORE you loosen the tank bolts.

The ole Kelebay Klipper would have never overlooked that very important point.
I'm on dial-up so I can't watch videos because they take too long to load.

The ole Kelebay Klipper would have snuck a peek between the tank and the bowl to see what hardware is between them before loosening the nuts under the bowl. Most tank-to-bowl kits nowadays have two extra nuts and two extra washers that allow you to take the tank off the bowl without draining the tank first. (And, that's how I've always done it, even before they included the extra hardware in the tank-to-bowl kits. And, even now, my system is arguably better because I always use brass JAM nuts, which are half the thickness of regular nuts, and that allowed me the extra space to include a rubber washer on both sides of the tank bottom.)

Here are 4 different images that Google - Image found for the character string "tank-to-bowl kit".


Why would the above kit have four stainless washers and four brass nuts unless two of the washers and two of the nuts were intended to go between the tank and the bowl?


The plastic nuts go under the tank, so that leaves the stainless nuts and washers no where to go but between the tank and the bowl.


The wing nuts go under the bowl. So guess where the hex nuts go?


And, here they pretty much spell it out for ya.

And in each case, that extra nut and washer on each bolt is there so that you can take the tank off the bowl without draining it first.

Google - Image found 729 images for "tank-to-bowl kit" and the biggest hunk of them include the extra hardware to allow you to take the tank off the bowl without emptying it first.


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Old 04-27-2010, 09:51 PM  
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And here's one where they got the hardware requirements right, but the order of assembly wrong:

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Old 04-27-2010, 10:45 PM  
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Damn Nestor!

You are the "King of Google Searches"

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Old 07-13-2010, 07:46 PM  
dahlman
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Default Dahl is domestic - 0% Chinese

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Originally Posted by Nestor_Kelebay View Post
Highway55:

There is a Canadian company called "Dahl" that sells stops like that. They look just like your typical Brasscraft stop, but they have a plastic stem just like your valve. I wouldn't be at all surprised if your valve and the ones Dahl sells came from the same factory in China. See if any of the plumbing wholesalers in your area carry Dahl. It's very possible because Dahl was the first company to produce a "mini-ball valve" for use as a toilet supply shut off, and those were very popular in both Canada and the USA.
Hi all,

I just came across this thread and, as one of the owners of Dahl, I need to clarify something.

We do not make, and have not ever made, any valves in China. Dahl designs, engineers and manufactures its own valves. We buy ALL of our brass bar stock and Teflon rod in the U.S.A. and machine those materials in our factory just outside of Toronto. We then assemble those components into finished valves. I will grudgingly admit that our braided connectors are bought from an American supplier who sources in China, but only because it's been impossible to find a domestic manufacturer who can meet our requirements.

We have never made multi-turn supply stops, however we do have a 1/4 turn retrofit valve that will piggy-back right onto the 3/8 OD Comp outlet of that Jameco valve. It is our part number 111-41-31.

I'll set up my account to get email notification of any questions regarding our products and/or their applications, and do my best to always reply as soon as possible.

Thanks!
Thomas aka Dahlman


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