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-   -   Shower diverter (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f33/shower-diverter-10807/)

Daryl in Nanoose 02-18-2011 09:15 AM

Shower diverter
 
1 Attachment(s)
I have 2 walk in showers to do and I want to put the diverter on one end and the shower head on the other. 1/2" pex. Is there any water pressure issues doing it this way? 1 shower is 32x 40 long and the other is 32x60 long

havasu 02-18-2011 09:57 AM

I myself am working on my own bath remodel and plan on doing something similar. I don't see a water pressure problem, but what I do see is a concern for safety on the longer shower. The valve is a long way away from where you will be standing, and if there is a disruption of cold water, the chance of scalding could occur. Make sure you use a modern anti-scalding valve.

joecaption 02-18-2011 01:27 PM

It will work but why would you want to do it that way. All the dirt, soap scum and dead skin is going to not be able to be washed down the drain that way. The shower head will be spraying water past the dirtyest spot in the shower. Then to adjust the temperature you have to turn around to get to the knobs.

havasu 02-18-2011 05:56 PM

I have no idea on Daryl's reasoning, but for me, I despise glass shower doors. I want to build a "walk in" or "L" type of shower, and want to confirm the water is hot before stepping into it. I sure as hell don't want to walk into the shower, just to turn it on, and get a blast of cold water!

plumber4200 02-24-2011 06:37 PM

Hey Daryl,

I do this all the time. 1/2 pex feeding the shower valve and then 1/2" going to the showerhead is fine. On second floor sometimes i will feed with 3/4" pex right up to valve just to be safe if I have a lot of rise from water meter and then tall house. I like your idea. My clients like being able to turn on the shower and not get wet with cold water.

Daryl in Nanoose 02-24-2011 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by havasu (Post 54261)
I myself am working on my own bath remodel and plan on doing something similar. I don't see a water pressure problem, but what I do see is a concern for safety on the longer shower. The valve is a long way away from where you will be standing, and if there is a disruption of cold water, the chance of scalding could occur. Make sure you use a modern anti-scalding valve.

I don't know about you but I always jump backwards to get the hell out of the way:D:D:D
I am using a anti scalding control

Daryl in Nanoose 02-24-2011 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 54267)
It will work but why would you want to do it that way. All the dirt, soap scum and dead skin is going to not be able to be washed down the drain that way. The shower head will be spraying water past the dirtyest spot in the shower. Then to adjust the temperature you have to turn around to get to the knobs.

Not to sure what you are talking about or meaning, only the shower valve is going on that wall not the drain. The only difference between this and a regular shower is where you turn it on and off and adjust the tempeture.:D

Daryl in Nanoose 02-24-2011 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plumber4200 (Post 54436)
Hey Daryl, :agree:

I do this all the time. 1/2 pex feeding the shower valve and then 1/2" going to the showerhead is fine. On second floor sometimes i will feed with 3/4" pex right up to valve just to be safe if I have a lot of rise from water meter and then tall house. I like your idea. My clients like being able to turn on the shower and not get wet with cold water.

I kinda thought there was not a problem. I to thought about 3/4 supply but would have to tear up the whole basement to get to it. Right now theres 1/2" copper right over head. :clap:

plumber4200 02-27-2011 05:34 PM

Show us a picture when u finish. good luck!


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