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o2284200 05-11-2013 07:43 AM

toilet flange
This is a first bathroom on a concrete slab to which I narrowed down a toilet leak from under the toilet onto the floor; most likely coming from wax seal or flange so I bought a new wax and removed the toilet.

To remove the toilet, I had to cut the bolts with a hacksaw, after which, the old wax ring was mostly still attached to the bottom of the toilet and a small bit of wax remained on the pvc flange.

The pvc flange was basically flush with the flooring but just a bit crooked...a little lower in the back & higher in the front and sitting in a large bed of caulk on top of the original cast iron flange, which the bolts were attached to and I stuck a little good ole' TP down in the piping.

How does this cast iron flange & piping look & what's the best way to approach this repair moving forward?

FWIW, the laminate flooring in this room will be replaced with tile sooner rather than later.

kok328 05-11-2013 10:48 AM

Looks like the flange has a crack where it meets the pipe. However, this isn't as big a problem as it seems as the was ring will cover the crack. It's the bolt holes that are the important part and they still look good. If it were me, I'd install a new wax ring, bolt kit and see what happens. No need to make the job bigger than it has to be at this point.

o2284200 05-11-2013 01:12 PM

Thanks, I think the crack you speaking of is actually a shadow in front.

The part I called the pvc flange appears to be more of a spacer ring to allow for adjustments in floor heights. That said, would you put all that caulk & the spacer ring back 1st?

My other concern is...Thinking ahead; I'm planning on replacing the floor with tile sooner rather than later and I want to keep that in mind so I don't make more work for myself at that point.

CallMeVilla 05-11-2013 06:07 PM

You can use an extended wax ring that will allow the water to bypass the flange just enough. I typically use them as insurance against future leaks.

Some plumber will double stack their wax rings when tile is used to get the necessary clearance for the flush ... I have never done it but guys have suggested it to me too.


o2284200 05-12-2013 03:52 PM


Originally Posted by CallMeVilla (Post 86906)
You can use an extended wax ring that will allow the water to bypass the flange just enough. I typically use them as insurance against future leaks...:D

I took a wire brush to the flange especially around the slots and it all seems pretty solid. I used one of these on top of the spacer, which again became flush with the floor but I did not put any caulk like it had before. Unfortunately, the bolts are too short and I cannot thread the nut to them. Any suggestions?

CallMeVilla 05-12-2013 09:18 PM

Have you tried locating longer bolts? Standard thing with toilet installation ...

o2284200 05-14-2013 06:05 AM

Great, thanks!
Got some at local HD for about $4; I'll start over and give it a shot with these & a new wax ring.

After further review, (I'm not sure if this is an issue or not so forgive me, if it's not BUT...) with the standard length bolts still installed, the right side bolt is a little higher than the left. I tried to place even weight from side to side and I can actually get the nut to start threading on the right side but once I put the washer on the left side, I can't get to the bolt to thread it.

nealtw 05-14-2013 09:39 AM

Often the bolts are siting on the floor until you tighten them up, some times you can get a little help by putting something under the bolt and holding them up to the bottom of the flange.

o2284200 05-28-2013 11:46 AM

Thought I was in the clear... Got the longer bolts and everything was working for the past couples of weeks until toilet appeared to get backed up and not flush all the way...Water came out from under the it.

Then while using the utility sink in the attached laundry room, water began pouring out from under the toilet.

FWIW, There's a clean out just to the right of the utility sink and this all on a first floor concrete slab with no basement access.

CallMeVilla 05-28-2013 12:05 PM

I would suspect a blockage downstream from the toilet which is causing the backflow. Snake the drain until the water runs smoothly through the wash tub.

You are "almost" done! :D

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