DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Plumbing Forum > toilet flange




Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 05-11-2013, 07:43 AM  
o2284200
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: , South Florida
Posts: 96
Liked 5 Times on 4 Posts

Default toilet flange

This is a first bathroom on a concrete slab to which I narrowed down a toilet leak from under the toilet onto the floor; most likely coming from wax seal or flange so I bought a new wax and removed the toilet.

To remove the toilet, I had to cut the bolts with a hacksaw, after which, the old wax ring was mostly still attached to the bottom of the toilet and a small bit of wax remained on the pvc flange.

The pvc flange was basically flush with the flooring but just a bit crooked...a little lower in the back & higher in the front and sitting in a large bed of caulk on top of the original cast iron flange, which the bolts were attached to and I stuck a little good ole' TP down in the piping.

How does this cast iron flange & piping look & what's the best way to approach this repair moving forward?

FWIW, the laminate flooring in this room will be replaced with tile sooner rather than later.





__________________

Last edited by o2284200; 05-11-2013 at 08:33 AM.
o2284200 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-11-2013, 10:48 AM  
kok328
Supporting Member
HRT_SUPPORTER.png
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Grand Blanc, MI
Posts: 2,194
Liked 107 Times on 94 Posts
Likes Given: 64

Default

Looks like the flange has a crack where it meets the pipe. However, this isn't as big a problem as it seems as the was ring will cover the crack. It's the bolt holes that are the important part and they still look good. If it were me, I'd install a new wax ring, bolt kit and see what happens. No need to make the job bigger than it has to be at this point.



__________________
kok328 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-11-2013, 01:12 PM  
o2284200
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: , South Florida
Posts: 96
Liked 5 Times on 4 Posts

Default

Thanks, I think the crack you speaking of is actually a shadow in front.

The part I called the pvc flange appears to be more of a spacer ring to allow for adjustments in floor heights. That said, would you put all that caulk & the spacer ring back 1st?

My other concern is...Thinking ahead; I'm planning on replacing the floor with tile sooner rather than later and I want to keep that in mind so I don't make more work for myself at that point.

__________________

Last edited by o2284200; 05-11-2013 at 06:21 PM.
o2284200 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-11-2013, 06:07 PM  
CallMeVilla
Contractor
 
CallMeVilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,271
Liked 388 Times on 304 Posts
Likes Given: 161

Default

You can use an extended wax ring that will allow the water to bypass the flange just enough. I typically use them as insurance against future leaks.

Some plumber will double stack their wax rings when tile is used to get the necessary clearance for the flush ... I have never done it but guys have suggested it to me too.

__________________
CallMeVilla is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-12-2013, 03:52 PM  
o2284200
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: , South Florida
Posts: 96
Liked 5 Times on 4 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CallMeVilla View Post
You can use an extended wax ring that will allow the water to bypass the flange just enough. I typically use them as insurance against future leaks...
I took a wire brush to the flange especially around the slots and it all seems pretty solid. I used one of these on top of the spacer, which again became flush with the floor but I did not put any caulk like it had before. Unfortunately, the bolts are too short and I cannot thread the nut to them. Any suggestions?

__________________

Last edited by o2284200; 05-12-2013 at 05:34 PM.
o2284200 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-12-2013, 09:18 PM  
CallMeVilla
Contractor
 
CallMeVilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,271
Liked 388 Times on 304 Posts
Likes Given: 161

Default

Have you tried locating longer bolts? Standard thing with toilet installation ...

http://www.bicwarehouse.com/extra-long-toilet-bolt-set-434845.html

__________________
CallMeVilla is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-14-2013, 06:05 AM  
o2284200
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: , South Florida
Posts: 96
Liked 5 Times on 4 Posts

Default

Great, thanks!
Got some at local HD for about $4; I'll start over and give it a shot with these & a new wax ring.

FWIW:
After further review, (I'm not sure if this is an issue or not so forgive me, if it's not BUT...) with the standard length bolts still installed, the right side bolt is a little higher than the left. I tried to place even weight from side to side and I can actually get the nut to start threading on the right side but once I put the washer on the left side, I can't get to the bolt to thread it.

__________________
o2284200 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-14-2013, 09:39 AM  
nealtw
Contractor
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 10,230
Liked 838 Times on 749 Posts
Likes Given: 1456

Default

Often the bolts are siting on the floor until you tighten them up, some times you can get a little help by putting something under the bolt and holding them up to the bottom of the flange.

__________________
nealtw is online now  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-28-2013, 11:46 AM  
o2284200
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: , South Florida
Posts: 96
Liked 5 Times on 4 Posts

Default

Thought I was in the clear... Got the longer bolts and everything was working for the past couples of weeks until toilet appeared to get backed up and not flush all the way...Water came out from under the it.

Then while using the utility sink in the attached laundry room, water began pouring out from under the toilet.

FWIW, There's a clean out just to the right of the utility sink and this all on a first floor concrete slab with no basement access.



__________________

Last edited by o2284200; 05-28-2013 at 12:06 PM.
o2284200 is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-28-2013, 12:05 PM  
CallMeVilla
Contractor
 
CallMeVilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,271
Liked 388 Times on 304 Posts
Likes Given: 161

Default

I would suspect a blockage downstream from the toilet which is causing the backflow. Snake the drain until the water runs smoothly through the wash tub.

You are "almost" done!



__________________
CallMeVilla is offline  
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter DIY Home Repair Forum Replies Last Post
Wide Flange Beam in Basement rcahoy General Home Improvement Discussion 3 03-27-2013 06:20 PM
1" offset toilet flange? swindmill Plumbing Forum 5 12-15-2011 08:13 PM
Corroded Bathtub Flange chrislorenc Plumbing Forum 4 05-17-2011 08:25 AM
Stuck sink drain flange remark Plumbing Forum 2 08-01-2009 07:59 PM
Toilet Flange Height Problem Tuco General Home Improvement Discussion 0 07-23-2007 05:21 PM