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Old 05-28-2013, 12:22 PM  
nealtw
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Sorry I missunderstud the bolt question, I agree with Villa, you have a blockage, but you also have a problem with the wax ring. It should not have leaked there evan with a back up. It's not enough just to get the water to stay in the pipe, it also needs to stop gasses from coming up. Use a regular wax ring under the one with the flange, a new set of long bolts.



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Old 05-29-2013, 12:15 PM  
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No problem...Thanks! So, I still have the same problem with the wax ring and you're saying to start over with another new wax ring with flange but add an additional wax ring? The longer bolts I have on now should be able to be re-used here. What about those Extra Thick & REINFORCED wax rings?

UPDATES: Ok I'm not sure how important this is but I never did put any sealant around the outside of the bottom of the toilet after replacing the wax ring. Also, It's been brought to my attention that either a small hand towel/washcloth went down the toilet recently...So, I think we have our blockage.

I was researching online and ended up finding General Pipe Cleaners Closet Augers, which apparently come in 3' & 6' with Regular Head or optional Drop Head. http://www.drainbrain.com/pro/closetaugers.html Looks like a great piece to have on hand but my concern here is even the 6' will not reach the blockage because it's most likely down the inside the pipe. I had the toilet off already and no sign of the washcloth ALSO we've been using the toilet for almost 2 weeks. I actually called General and they recommend I rent a Mini Rooter XP with 50 feet of half (whatever that is) & retrieving tool. Your thoughts?



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Old 05-29-2013, 12:47 PM  
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Extra thick may work, your call! You never seal around the toilet to the floor, if there is a leak in the wax seal you want to know it, water can still soak the paper backing of lino or work it's way under tile, or if you were on a wood floor, you want to catch it before it leaks down stairs.
You blockage may have moved along and the pipe should be cleaned to make sure it is clear. Cast iron pipe can have scale and other stuff to catch a solid and may be it should be scoped an maybe more cleaning will be required.

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Old 05-29-2013, 02:15 PM  
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Mysterious problems you have .... The new wax ring should have prevented the water from the blockage from leaking back onto the floor (it should have shown up in your wash sink). Typically, you use a plain wax ring if the closet flange is slightly above the finished floor. In your case, the closet flange is flush with the floor or slightly below, so you used the wax ring with the plastic bell or funnel. You did the right thing.

If a cotton towel is down your drain, it MUST be removed or pushed into the larger main pipe. I would operate the auger through the cleanout until you hit resistance. Pull it out in hopes of snagging the towell. If that fails, just keep pushing into the towel until the tip hooks it. If that fails, you MUST run the auger to the main line and possibly the street.

To ensure complete clearance, you could rent a video scope. They are easy to operate and give you a clear picture of the interior of your pipes. Usually, you get 75' of cable, which is typically enough to get to the street.

PS -- Neal is correct (again). DO not caulk under the rim of the toilet. Some poeple like the aesthetics of the look, so you can compromise by leaving the caulk off the backside of the toilet which would allow a leak to be seen.

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Old 05-29-2013, 03:17 PM  
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Whenthe toilet was removed it had a spacer. If that was left out the flange is below the floor and needs considerably more wax.

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Old 05-29-2013, 09:09 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CallMeVilla View Post
Mysterious problems you have .... The new wax ring should have prevented the water from the blockage from leaking back onto the floor (it should have shown up in your wash sink). Typically, you use a plain wax ring if the closet flange is slightly above the finished floor. In your case, the closet flange is flush with the floor or slightly below, so you used the wax ring with the plastic bell or funnel. You did the right thing.

If a cotton towel is down your drain, it MUST be removed or pushed into the larger main pipe. I would operate the auger through the cleanout until you hit resistance. Pull it out in hopes of snagging the towell. If that fails, just keep pushing into the towel until the tip hooks it. If that fails, you MUST run the auger to the main line and possibly the street.

To ensure complete clearance, you could rent a video scope. They are easy to operate and give you a clear picture of the interior of your pipes. Usually, you get 75' of cable, which is typically enough to get to the street.

PS -- Neal is correct (again). DO not caulk under the rim of the toilet. Some poeple like the aesthetics of the look, so you can compromise by leaving the caulk off the backside of the toilet which would allow a leak to be seen.
When you say "auger", sounds like you're talking about the Mini-Rooter type in Neal's video post not the 3' or 6' type.

Scope it...Yes, great idea,,,Thanks! Actually, I had all the stacks and the main clean out scoped before I bought the place...and the ,ain showed some very small roots coming into the pipe at about 44'.
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:12 PM  
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Whenthe toilet was removed it had a spacer. If that was left out the flange is below the floor and needs considerably more wax.
I put the spacer back, which became flush with the floor but I did not put any caulk like it had a lot of before.
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:54 PM  
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The flange would have made the water go down the pipe, but the sewer gas would have had a free run into your house. I wouldn't trust chaulk to seal good to the cast iron, perhaps, part of a wax ring between the iron and the spacer.



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