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Old 01-03-2014, 05:28 PM  
nealtw
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try this...
That would be great except this thing is five feet off the floor for a reason.
I doubt if code is his first worry. He would be looking at sumps and pumps and big dollars. If the main line is not plugged and the 12 ft run was sloped good. he could try to install a cheater valve to suck air. He just wants to do the laundry.


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Old 01-03-2014, 08:05 PM  
Wuzzat?
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I guess a booster water pump could overcome piping design problems and maybe partial blockages but I've never heard of a pump being used this way.

An analogy would be a ductwork booster fan.



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Old 01-04-2014, 07:24 AM  
bud16415
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Without knowing where the line runs to its hard to tell if he even needs a trap for that matter. Around here a lot of people have washing machines going to a dry well. Others run them to a ditch etc. it's very common to have them bypass the septic tank and go to what we call a grease trap along with the kitchen sink and then joins the grey septic water into a leach field.
As Neil suggested a cheater vent might do the trick here. Or maybe a little stack up and thru the wall. None of that is code and depends on what's on the other end of the pipe.

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Old 01-05-2014, 11:50 AM  
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Did some measuring the first pipe is sloped 5 inches over 6ft then the next pipe is sloped 4 inches over just a little less than 6 ft. The whole thing starts 52 inches off the ground and ends inches off the ground. A cheater vent would just a be a straight vent sticking out somewhere along the pipe line? How far down the line would I put this?

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Old 01-05-2014, 12:06 PM  
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http://www.google.com/search?q=%22cheater+vent%22&client=safari&rls=en&s ource=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=Da3JUvPnBvWwsATt5ID4DQ &ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1019&bih=741
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:20 PM  
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Was just looking at exactly that....appears that the vent should be close to the trap.
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Old 01-05-2014, 01:05 PM  
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Was just looking at exactly that....appears that the vent should be close to the trap.
To see ahead of time if a vent will work you could snake a tube down the pipe that allows air to enter.
If no change it's likely a clog.
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Old 01-05-2014, 02:50 PM  
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To see ahead of time if a vent will work you could snake a tube down the pipe that allows air to enter.
If no change it's likely a clog.
Ok Ill try that. Looks like most places have the vent close to standpipe but wouldn't it be more beneficial to be a little bit down the line more since some air is entering through the standpipe?
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:03 PM  
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Ok Ill try that. Looks like most places have the vent close to standpipe but wouldn't it be more beneficial to be a little bit down the line more since some air is entering through the standpipe?
Dunno'.
The more I think about the design of plumbing systems the more I realize I don't fully understand it.
For your answer I'd think you have to look in one of those fat, thick, little handbooks for residential or commercial plumbing design that Border's used to have. Barnes & Noble doesn't seem to be as good on this count.

For HVAC there's ASHRAE. Maybe there is a similar org. for plumbing design/engineering.
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Old 01-05-2014, 05:01 PM  
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No air is entering thru the stand pipe. That's the problem. Just like a water trap keeps sewer gas from coming back up a pipe it also stops air from going down the pipe. A cheater vent allows the low pressure caused by the water running away to open and let air in to allow the water to flow out. Once the flow stops the flapper closes keeping gas from coming back up. These work but if the fail open then you fave gas. The best venting is a pipe that travels up to the roof line where the gas isn't a problem.



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