Attaching gutter to fascia board
My house has a 9:12 roof slope and the fascia board is normal (90 degrees) to the slope of the roof. The fascia board is not vertical (plumb) like you see on so many houses. How do I attach gutters to this fascia board? The company supplying the gutter materials has a plastic "fascia fixer" which is a spacer type of thing, but it won't work on a slope as steep as 9:12.
I am thinking about making my own spacers out of treated wood but I wanted to see if anyone has had this problem before.
Thanks for your input!
There are what is called gutter wedges, that attach where your gutter spikes are attached to keep the bottom of the gutter away from the fascia. I personally don't like them because when you look up at the fascia from underneath they are really visable.
You hit on a solution that is more pleasant to look at and very functional. I would not use treated wood but prime either pine or spruce front, back top, bottom and then apply paint BEFORE install. We have used this method before on angle cut rafter tails and have had O problems. Make sure you use a gutter bracket with a screw (hidden hangers) and skip the gutter spike and ferruls. When you cut your angle wedge make sure it extends from the top of the fascia(thin) to the bottom of the gutter(fat). Also make sure the gutters are pitched to the outlets and by all means keep them clean.
Hope this helps, I think you were on the right track with your thought process.
Thanks O'dog! I think this is what I'll try. I've got a table saw, mitre saw, etc. so it shouldn't be too hard to work them up. Thanks again for your input!
I'm following jyant's question, wondering if it might help better inform myself...that is, along with roof installation discussed elsewhere , the proposal calls for gutter replacement:
"12. Remove old gutters and replace with seamless 6” (K-OG Style) gutter using 6”x1.5”x.060 aluminum hidden hangers every 2 feet with 2” zinc coated screws. All miters will be hand cut and sealed with 100% silicone. "
The only parts that I had insisted on were hidden hangers and hand cut miters.....should I be asking about "gutter wedges"...or is this irrelevant to a 3 over 12 roof?
If I may indulge some other questions that I realize are not directly related to jyant's thread....
--do you have an opinion about best material to seal miter cuts?
-- when fascia board is rotten and needs to be replaced, do you have preference for whether it's white or yellow pine?
-- is it necessary top prime-paint front and back of wood?
Bill, your situation should be different than jy's, in that his rafter tails are at a 90 degree angle to the rafter run. If you already have gutters the tails have probably been cut vertical and a fascia installed. Gutter wedges are not appropriate to your installation.
I've found silicone to be a poor caulk on exterior caulking applications. We use either GE or Dow tri-polymer or rubber based caulk. These seem to hold up better where you have movement of surfaces. Metal will expand and contract depending on temp.
Your gutter installer should have a "Gutter Caulk" that he uses to seal the miters. Gutter caulk is available at the big box stores and the gutter supply houses, its made for a wet environment. Check with your installer as he is the one who will be warranting the installation.
I would recommend priming the boards on all surfaces, they will last a lot longer.
Just my 2 cents.
Would it be adequate to just prime the back of the fascia...or go all the way and paint,too?'...i'm just trying to cut back on time...but want to do it right.
As for sealant....i, too, have not had success with pure silicone....
some else said that their contractor uses: geocel
Geocel Gutter Sealant - 10.3 oz. Tube | Sealant - Gutter Supply
Have you any thoughts on this one...though, i have noted the ones that you do like.
And, any thoughts on wood for replacemnent....what they push around here is white pine...1x8....the wood jsut looks so soft.....yellow pine is what is up there.
Geocell makes some great products. We use their 2300 to hand seal loose shingles or where we have to make a tie into an existing shingle roof. Silicone is NOT a good sealant when used on asphalt shingles. Geocel makes a excellent brush on grade product that we have used to repair the mortar wash (mortar cap) on top of true masonry chimneys.
I don't like their gutter sealant because we are usually trying to repair a leaky seam in a wet environment and it has a tendency to ball up. I think it would work good on a dry application. There are wet and dry gutter sealants available for sealing existing seams or mitres, cleaning the joints is very important on existing repairs.
If you would at least primer the back of your fascia boards you will be light years ahead of what is installed on most houses. Primmer minimum. I like to over kill cause when I'm off work I don't like to do repairs on a house. Kinda like the shoe cobblers kids running around barefoot. ;)
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