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Old 02-03-2014, 09:23 PM  
kwatt57
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also about vapor barrior. Just fiberglass insulation with paper to living space. should I have stapled up plastic before drywall?



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Old 02-03-2014, 10:15 PM  
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The roofer should have removed some wood to allow the ridge vent to work something like 1 1/2" on each side of the ridge. Replacing the old vents would be the quick fix. Having foam on the outside and a vapour barrier on the inside can creat problems also, so repairing holes with tivac was a good move as it will allow moisture to escape.
One of your picture is outside looking at some really dirty siding, Is that the room in question?



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Old 02-04-2014, 05:05 AM  
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You should have a 1-1/2" air gap on each side of the center ridge beam to allow for attic air exhaust and you should not use any other type of exhaust vent in combination with shingle over ridge vent. Your roofer did not cut the decking properly when he installed the roof IF the pic you show has ridge vent installed over it. I would call him back if it was my house.

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Old 02-04-2014, 06:04 AM  
bud16415
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Like others have pointed out it looks like the roofers measured back from the point of the roof as if it was a truss roof and cut the old sheathing. You would think they would have seen the ridge board and a light would have come on but it seems they didn’t. I don’t know how wide a cap they used and how that would cover a wider cut. Bottom line though is you need to get more air moving thru the roof and hopefully that will help with the mold problem. I’m not sure how the two issues are related or if they are related at all.

You had the same bitter winter we had so far up in Erie, and it’s really tested insulation systems, furnaces and vapor barriers that’s for sure.

Let’s recap what I’m seeing here. First the ridge vent is inadequate in the slots they cut. There seems to be some difference in opinion if restoring the old vents or redoing the ridge vent or adding some kind of additional venting power or not would be your best solution. I’m just a homeowner handyman around my own home and I’ll let the pros offer opinions on why one is better than another. The company that did your roofing should be made aware of their mistake and the problem it caused, and who knows they may offer help. They should. The old vent holes got plugged off it looks like with tin. Is that correct?
Now the staining: I’m assuming a circa 1920 house around here had no insulation and had no sheathing on the outside and they removed the clapboard siding. For you to be able to tape holes they made in the insul-board from the inside, I’m guessing you took down lath and plaster and had empty wall cavities you filled with fiberglass with the paper backing stapled to the inside and then drywall. Neil seemed to think they put foam on the outside before siding that depending on the thickness could act as a second vapor barrier but I’m thinking the stuff you called insul-board was something different. Can you describe it? I wonder if it was something like the “Johns Manville Fesco Board”. Do you remember if they put anything over the board before the siding like a house wrap or felt paper? Looking at your photos the staining is evenly spaced on your studs right where the nails would be. It also looks like your house was balloon framed common in 1920’s. it also starts right at the second floor ceiling line and is not up in the cold place. I don’t think it’s so much running down the house as emerging along the stud lines. It looks to me like moisture coming from someplace reacting with a tar based product like the Fesco or tar paper etc. Popping a couple strips of siding off will tell us what’s going on there. How fast did the staining come on? Was it not there this fall and now it is?
I would contact the siding company also to see what they have to say.

Hope this helps you.



On edit: The other reason you will want to get the attic venting corrected is the summer heat will really shorten your roof life if you don’t.

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Old 02-04-2014, 06:14 AM  
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Bud, vent MFG's installation specs state that ridge vent should never be used in combination with other forms of attic exhaust ventilation. What happens is you set up a condition where the stronger vent pulls air from the weaker vent and you short cycle the venting system. Exhaust vents are not designed to be intake vents. You can actually pull moisture in the vent. The answer is not just add more vents. They have to be properly installed and placed to be effective.

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Old 02-04-2014, 09:19 AM  
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That sounds correct to me as well. Suppose the home owner after calling out the roofing contractor finds they won’t make this right. I guess his next step is to find someone to remove the cap and open the slots up and then replace the cap with new product. Could he also have the option of plugging the slots that are undersized from inside and adding a power draw system like he was talking about. To reinstall the old roof vents would be most likely more work than redoing the ridge vents. The problem with a power venting system is its only going to run when it’s hot out.

Do you see his two problems as being related beyond he is pumping 5 gallons of water into his dry house per day. I don’t see that mold growing in the winter months from the humidifier water. The issue on the outside is tied to the poor attic venting?

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Old 02-04-2014, 09:31 AM  
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All he would have to do is remove the ridge vent, cut strips of underlayment 8" wide, center it to the ridge, nail. Install new capping along the ridge line and install a power vent if he chose. I would replace the ridge vent properly myself.

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Old 02-04-2014, 08:31 PM  
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Thanks again guys for the good discussion here. To old dogs point, I'm going to try to stick with correcting the ridge vent here. it makes sense not to mix venting systems as you suggest. As I mentioned in my last post the main roof above the original house is isolated from the roof on the addition(Where the problems are)The addition roof starts 90 degrees off of the old one (when I crawl up in this space you can still see the outside of the old roof inside this space it's behind me in the pics I took) reason I bring this up is the roofer installed a new fan in the old roof (the old one died in the spring) and he also put in a ridge vent. although I suspect it looks like the one in the addition( I will need to inspect this as well). So in this space I have a gable vent on one side dead fan on the other (aka another vent) and a fan in the roof and now a ridge vent. No soffit vents. I'll probably just keep a close eye on this one. Bud, I'll try to answer a few of your questions here. Old house is vinyl over wooden clapboard. addition side( Also 2 stories & approx. 45 years old) is an insulating board material resembling OSB or waferboard black in color only not nearly as strong. without siding on you can poke holes in it. Siding contractor did not install anything over this before vinyl. I had requested fanfold ins. in retrospect perhaps I should have had the house wrapped, but I returned home one day & his crew was hanging siding with no fanfold. crew foreman kept going on about house needing to breathe..so everywhere there ladders poke holes through exterior I now believe is causing stains on house (At attic level inside of house holes show back of vinyl, warm air inside/cold out causes sweat on back of vinyl runs down house....inside house actually had 3*5 sheets of sheetrock tore down Insulated re-drywalled. Old house is balloon framing, addition is not. Also you asked about roofer tinning over holes from old vent, unfortunately not what I saw looks like underlayment for shingles. He did not use felt it resembled more like a house wrap. as I mentioned above next step will be to contact roofer and try to get ridge corrected.

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Old 02-04-2014, 08:59 PM  
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When we open up walls with pink insulation lots of times we find that it is black, home owner always think mold but most of the time it is dirt, dropped off by dirty inside air working it's way out.. This seldom turns to mold as the moisture can vent to the outside unless the moisture hangs there to long. The foam behind your siding would have trapped any moisture leaking into the wall would stay there. So the dirt down the siding could be dirty moist air coming from inside. The other problem is the vinyl siding is not waterproof actually it leaks like a sive. It really needs the house wrap behind it.
This dona cona type product you have under the siding will swell up and deteriorate and that could be the cause of the dirt on the siding. As this swells up it will push and pull at the siding and make it leak even more.
Balloon framing is bad in that it has clear runs for air and fire up the exerior wall, some have open cavities all the way to the attic. these should be blocked in the attic and basement or crawlspace.

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Old 02-05-2014, 06:43 AM  
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Here is a link to some information on the fiberboard sheathing you have.
http://inspectapedia.com/structure/Fiberboard_Sheathing.htm

I know exactly what that stuff is like it was the way to go back in the day. My dad covered a whole house with it and then put felt paper and then red wood siding over it. Still looks great 60 years later. I don’t think quite so good with the plastic siding. I think you are right it needed the fan fold stuff. I would take the siding off and add the fan fold and put it back up. I think that’s the only way you are going to fix the problem and I thing water getting in against that sheathing will just keep getting worse. Maybe the reason its showing up in lines where the studs are is because the siding is tighter there and closer to the sheathing. Siding pops off very easy with a hook tool and you just drive the nails in flush and put up the fan fold and rehang the siding. the company that did it should really make it right. Or at least do it for cost.



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