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Old 06-26-2014, 08:44 AM  
bryce
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Default DIY roofer?

I've got a problem with rot in the roof, i can smell it some times when it is hot.
What happen was they put a new metal roof over the old shingles and never removed them or fixed the rotten roof boards.
Can i do this with scaffolding? 10' scaffolding is 400lbs
I guess one person can set this up? Then i would have to take it down and move it or roll at least at the back of the house.
Would it be safe enough? Looks slippery this metal roof. It is steep too.
I guess the pro roofer would use ladders and jump around like monkeys up there? Probably need to replace 10 of the roof boards.



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Old 06-26-2014, 04:09 PM  
Wuzzat?
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First check how much your existing, good, roof boards deflect at the span center from the roofing load they now hold up. Use a straightedge or string and average a few readings.

If you can stand >180F replace the boards piecemeal from underneath by removing wood and sistering the patch board section with the support board, a 2x2 or a 2x4 on edge. The patch board and the 2x4 should have a tee cross-section.
Take care your fasteners do not penetrate the metal roofing.
If you get the same deflections then your patches are strong enough.

You may want to rent a portable AC with a long duct.



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Old 06-26-2014, 04:24 PM  
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[QUOTE=Wuzzat?;107140]If you can stand >180F replace the boards piecemeal from underneath by removing wood and sistering the patch board section with the support board, a 2x2 or a 2x4 on edge. The patch board and the 2x4 should have a tee cross-section.
Take care your fasteners do not penetrate the metal roofing.
If you get the same deflections then your patches are strong enough.QUOTE]

You are kidding aren't you, have you ever done a repair like this?

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Old 06-26-2014, 06:20 PM  
Wuzzat?
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[quote=oldognewtrick;107141]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wuzzat? View Post
If you can stand >180F replace the boards piecemeal from underneath by removing wood and sistering the patch board section with the support board, a 2x2 or a 2x4 on edge. The patch board and the 2x4 should have a tee cross-section.
Take care your fasteners do not penetrate the metal roofing.
If you get the same deflections then your patches are strong enough.QUOTE]

You are kidding aren't you, have you ever done a repair like this?
Nobody answered in 7 hours and these last posts are not really answers.

My bad, wrong mental image. . .

If each between-rafter section of the rotten board is 22-1/2" long, then a 2x2x22-1/2 goes between the rafters and long screws are angled up through the 2x2 and up into the rafters to support the new 22-1/2" board.
For less added weight use an aluminum channel, U shaped or rectangular.

I never had to do this repair, not yet.

Structurally I think it should work but I welcome a "design review".

I'd think the worst part, besides the heat, would be climbing over the roof trusses while avoiding protruding roofing nail points. So, wait till fall. Meanwhile, get in shape, 'cause this type of work is stressful, dirty, physically demanding and can be dangerous.

What do you suggest for the OP?
He doesn't seem too hot on climbing on this roof.

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Old 06-27-2014, 06:04 AM  
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Wuzzat, you have obviously little or no experience in roofing and roof structure experience. Rafters and decking get their strength by spanning over multiple distance. Piecing in from the bottom will compromise the integrity of the structure itself.

The OP has more than one issue besides decking. The metal roof was installed over existing shingles and bad wood. When you roof over an existing surface you accept the condition of the roof deck, as there is no way to correct issues without a complete tear off. Installing metal roofing (OP actually have agricultural panels) over the shingles will continue to have decay of the shingles. They will cause the panels to fracture the lap seam as they continue to deteriorate from heat, even if installed on batten strips. Exposed fasteners will fail at the rubber grommet and need to be replaced. Metal expands over an inch in a 100' run, this expansion of the metal will cause the screw holes to elongate and bigger screws will need to be installed eventually.

The proper cure is remove the metal, remove the old layers of shingles, fix any decking issues and then install a proper roof system. There is no short cut that will be a value for this problem. What we are seeing is the result of someone taking previous shortcuts and compounding problems by improper techniques. They didn't even put the fasteners in the proper locations. The install specks on that product is the screws should be put on the flat of the pan to provide a flat surface for the grommet to seal to. If the panel is installed with nails, they are to be put in the ribs.

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Old 06-27-2014, 07:47 AM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldognewtrick View Post
Wuzzat, you have obviously little or no experience in roofing and roof structure experience. Rafters and decking get their strength by spanning over multiple distance. Piecing in from the bottom will compromise the integrity of the structure itself.

The OP has more than one issue besides decking. The metal roof was installed over existing shingles and bad wood. When you roof over an existing surface you accept the condition of the roof deck, as there is no way to correct issues without a complete tear off. Installing metal roofing (OP actually have agricultural panels) over the shingles will continue to have decay of the shingles. They will cause the panels to fracture the lap seam as they continue to deteriorate from heat, even if installed on batten strips. Exposed fasteners will fail at the rubber grommet and need to be replaced. Metal expands over an inch in a 100' run, this expansion of the metal will cause the screw holes to elongate and bigger screws will need to be installed eventually.

The proper cure is remove the metal, remove the old layers of shingles, fix any decking issues and then install a proper roof system. There is no short cut that will be a value for this problem. What we are seeing is the result of someone taking previous shortcuts and compounding problems by improper techniques. They didn't even put the fasteners in the proper locations. The install specks on that product is the screws should be put on the flat of the pan to provide a flat surface for the grommet to seal to. If the panel is installed with nails, they are to be put in the ribs.
I'll go with that. The OP may, also.
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Old 06-27-2014, 08:11 AM  
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http://docserver.nrca.net/technical/8135.pdf

Something to consider when getting a metal roof.
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Old 06-27-2014, 11:28 AM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryce View Post
10 of the roof boards.
What percent of the total roof board area is rotten?
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Old 06-27-2014, 12:23 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wuzzat? View Post
What percent of the total roof board area is rotten?
He can use his X-ray eyes for this.
Heat will dammage the roofing under the metal the rot will be caused by moisture getting into the system from the house without enough ventulation.
With a proper vapour barrier you would not be able to smell anything going on above the ceiling.
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Old 06-27-2014, 01:58 PM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nealtw View Post
He can use his X-ray eyes for this.
Heat will dammage the roofing under the metal the rot will be caused by moisture getting into the system from the house without enough ventulation.
With a proper vapour barrier you would not be able to smell anything going on above the ceiling.
"comply with the wishes of (someone) in order to keep them content, however unreasonable such wishes might be."


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