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-   -   Extending J channel or starter strip nail flange higher? Or short screws? (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f34/extending-j-channel-starter-strip-nail-flange-higher-short-screws-690/)

rerod 04-26-2006 07:49 AM

Extending J channel or starter strip nail flange higher? Or short screws?
 
1 Attachment(s)

I have a cantilever first floor which overhangs the basement 1 foot. The 70's home has old T1-11 siding which hangs 2 1/4" lower than the existing 3/8" plywood soffit nailed to the bottom of the joists on the exterior cantilever. My problem is that when I install my board and batten vertical vinyl siding, I need to have a J channel nailed on the bottom edge to recieve the B&B siding. The J channel will be 1/4" lower than the T1-11 to prevent water from wicking into the bottom of the T1-11 which positions the nails for the bottom J channel 1 1/4" above the bottom edge of the T1-11. These nail tips and the splinters they make will be in a area which can be seen when looking up into the cantilever soffit. Iv thought about making another soffit a few inches lower to hide these nail tips and splinters. But The project looks harder than expected because of the limited space and unlevel soffit.
My question.. Can I pop rivet a extender on the nail flange of this bottom J channel to move the nails higher so they dont penetrate below the existing soffit? And does vinyl coil stock exist to keep the materials expantion rate the same? Or could I use 5/8" flat head screws to mount the bottom J channel to the 5/8" T1-11 as not to penetrate the back side? Sorry my question is so long winded. But this is drivin me nuts as Im the home owner / jackleg who wont settle for jackleg results.

Thanks

Mike


rerod 04-27-2006 08:23 AM

3 Attachment(s)

Thanks all.

After looking closer at the cantilever soffit over the garage. Iv found it drops more than 1/2" over the door. So if I furr it I would have to shim and level it so it was level with the bottom of the outside wall siding. Pain in the a##. And I like the hollow look and dont want the soffit to stand proud or even flush with the bottom of the siding. When its hollow you cant notice the 1/2" drop up 2" inside the soffit.

So the 5/8" #6 stainless pan head screws sound like the best option. I will only use these short screws on the bottom J channel which recieves the board and batten vinyl siding so they dont penetrate the back side of the T1-11 in the cantilever soffit area. And use longer screws or nails everywhere else. Then I will cap or wrap the bottom edge of the T1-11 with matching coil stock up to the existing soffit since no nails will be poking through. Then install new soffit over the existing to keep that hollow look.

My only issue now it the diameter of the screw. Vinyl Siding Institute states to use a #8 panhead or sheet metal screws, but the diameter of a #8 (.164") is more than the nail slot in my siding (.150"). So Im deciding weather to enlarge the slot (take forever) or settle with a #5 or #6 screw.

Mike


rerod 04-27-2006 08:23 AM

3 Attachment(s)

Thanks all.

After looking closer at the cantilever soffit over the garage. Iv found it drops more than 1/2" over the door. So if I furr it I would have to shim and level it so it was level with the bottom of the outside wall siding. Pain in the a##. And I like the hollow look and dont want the soffit to stand proud or even flush with the bottom of the siding. When its hollow you cant notice the 1/2" drop up 2" inside the soffit.

So the 5/8" #6 stainless pan head screws sound like the best option. I will only use these short screws on the bottom J channel which recieves the board and batten vinyl siding so they dont penetrate the back side of the T1-11 in the cantilever soffit area. And use longer screws or nails everywhere else. Then I will cap or wrap the bottom edge of the T1-11 with matching coil stock up to the existing soffit since no nails will be poking through. Then install new soffit over the existing to keep that hollow look.

My only issue now it the diameter of the screw. Vinyl Siding Institute states to use a #8 panhead or sheet metal screws, but the diameter of a #8 (.164") is more than the nail slot in my siding (.150"). So Im deciding weather to enlarge the slot (take forever) or settle with a #5 or #6 screw.

Mike


rerod 04-27-2006 08:23 AM

3 Attachment(s)

Thanks all.

After looking closer at the cantilever soffit over the garage. Iv found it drops more than 1/2" over the door. So if I furr it I would have to shim and level it so it was level with the bottom of the outside wall siding. Pain in the a##. And I like the hollow look and dont want the soffit to stand proud or even flush with the bottom of the siding. When its hollow you cant notice the 1/2" drop up 2" inside the soffit.

So the 5/8" #6 stainless pan head screws sound like the best option. I will only use these short screws on the bottom J channel which recieves the board and batten vinyl siding so they dont penetrate the back side of the T1-11 in the cantilever soffit area. And use longer screws or nails everywhere else. Then I will cap or wrap the bottom edge of the T1-11 with matching coil stock up to the existing soffit since no nails will be poking through. Then install new soffit over the existing to keep that hollow look.

My only issue now it the diameter of the screw. Vinyl Siding Institute states to use a #8 panhead or sheet metal screws, but the diameter of a #8 (.164") is more than the nail slot in my siding (.150"). So Im deciding weather to enlarge the slot (take forever) or settle with a #5 or #6 screw.

Mike



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