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Old 07-20-2006, 09:04 AM  
bethany14
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Hi All,
I'm reviving this thread
I'm about to install Hardi Panels (stucco finish) on my 1938 Bungalow. We're doing the job ourselves, so the first phase is just the front of our house. I'm ashamed to admit it, but we left the panels outside under a tarp. There are a few spots on the panels where moisture got in...now, they were pre-primed, so I'm hoping that has preserved their integrity...hoping From what I've read, if they're wet for installation you need to worry about shrinkage. Does that mean if they're dried out prior, I shouldn't have a problem?
I'm a complete rookie, and am learning everything as I go along! So, any input is welcomed with grateful thanks



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Old 07-20-2006, 11:22 AM  
inspectorD
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Default Should be fine.

When they say that the siding should not be wet when installed it usually means don't stack it . I have seen it stacked in piles out in the rain ,then some yokel starts to put it up dripping as they get the next piece.

So far no issues I have seen from the past product failures have showed up as of yet with the newer product.

Stay tuned .....................

Always install per manufacturers spec's.



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Old 07-20-2006, 12:45 PM  
bethany14
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Thanks for the reply, InspectorD
In the meantime I'll be deconstructing the stinky failing rotting old porch...

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Old 08-12-2006, 07:59 AM  
MTCquality
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Default Hardi vs. Vinyl vs. Steel

This is a common debate in the industry and there really is no comparison price wise. I am in the heart of the nation and a vinyl siding job (remodel) using the exact Certainteed Main Street .042 panel of 30 square considering tear off fanfold and wrap prices out at $12500. The exact same job in a Hardi plank siding comes in at $23500. Vinyl is considered cheap and quick and very minimal maintenance. It is fairly efficient and the seams are bearable if done correctly. Also if the job is done professionally by a dependable contractor should look good for up to 15 years or so with minimal fading and warping. Hardi Plank is a very good armor for the house and is much more expensive and labor intensive causing it to be a longer process which may or not interrupt your familys routine and schedule. Hardi is maintenance heavy and needs caulked and painted at least every 5 years. Now here is where I go borderline spam and Square eye will be upset with me......Kynar coated galvanized steel siding comes in 20 colors and has a 40 year transferable warranty. It can be installed as a seamless application and the panels are made right on site. The weather does not affect it,and as far as movement and warping, a fraction of vinyl. It is low maintenance and requires a hose bath about 1 time every 3 springs or so to prevent dirt build up (depending on location).Yes it can be dented with a BBgun and is easily repaired just lke vinyl. To install the above job in my area (without a franchise ) would cost about $14000 with a 5 year workmanship warranty. Now unfortunately if you have an ABC seamless franchise in your town it is gonna be closer to 23500. Keep in mind all the above jobs i described include replacing all soffit and facia and wrapping all windows and providing proper licenses and insurance.

I hope this helps.


Thanks

MTC

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Old 08-24-2007, 09:56 PM  
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Recently spoke to a guy who has installs vinyl siding for a living (past 15 years) who is putting FCB (cedar shake) on his new house. Reasons he gave me as to why are:
1. New FCB comes pre-painted and paint is guaranteed to last 30 years.
2. New FCB comes with 100 year guarantee.
3. New FCB costs the same or less then vinyl.
4. He feels FC will replace vinyl as the most commonly used siding material.
Pretty compelling reasons...Is he correct?

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Old 08-31-2007, 04:49 PM  
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Hi. We have it and love it. It sucks up the paint and hold the color so well. Plus this: we had an estimate w/ vynl, w/ the trim wrapped and w/ the fiber cement and we just paint the trim and it came out very close!!! It is wrapping the trim that really costs. Love the f.c.

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Old 01-25-2009, 12:35 AM  
saraplay
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Default I love Cement Siding

In 1998, I was in search of a wood look siding and learned about the Hardie Panel. It was a little costly, but I found a cement siding at a local building supply company. They carried what they called "seconds". I looked at the boards and they really looked like wood. My husband, his brother and a friend installed the siding. We painted it with a really good paint and it looked fabulous. We sold that home and bought a house and had it moved to some acreage we had purchased. We totally remodeled the house including using the cement siding again since we liked it so well. By the way, we used the Tyvek wrap. We did this in 2000. We were still able to purchase the boards at a really good price. We saved an enormous amount of money using this product. Both homes still look like they have new wood planks on them. The panels really hold the paint, no fading or chipping. I am now in the process of finding these panels again as I am starting a remodel on a 1920's house. I hope I can find these boards at a great price.
My opinion is that you can't go wrong with CEMENT SIDING.

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Old 01-25-2009, 11:33 PM  
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"My opinion is that you can't go wrong with CEMENT SIDING."

-Agreed! We just had our house done by siding pros--that's all they do. I read a lot of "opinions" in the older parts of the thread and some it is just plan hooey. Folks should download James Hardie's install PDF and get the truth how easy this is to work with. I was home daily watching how it was done and it is easy. I could have done the install but we have a two story and I didn't want to be the guy up high on the ladder or scaffold. HardiePlank is cross-cut with an electric shear for dust control and a diamond blade only as needed (like rips). You only caulk the butted joints if you choose, not under each lap as someone stated. Hardie says you leave a 1/8 gap bu we opted for tight joints and no caulk (joint still backed with a piece of Tyvek per Hardie). We did Tyvek under the whole job, btw. The HardiePlank paints awesome, too.

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Old 04-17-2009, 11:16 AM  
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Default paint/caulk every 5 yrs is total BS

I friend did his house 12 years ago, looks brand new.
I tried my hand at it with scraps he had left over (my house is mostly brick, but I hardieboarded the few places that had paneling).

Just make sure you use GE SiliconII PAINTABLE. It's important that it's the paintable version. And it's CRITICAL that it's 100% silicon. it's about $6 a tube, but will never shrink/dry/crack.
If you use crappy caulk, you will have to recaulk and paint.

It's like cooking. Your dish is only as good poorest quality ingredient.

I also put an extra coat of primer on mine before I hang it, and primer all my cuts. Helps to not be in a time crunch.

The stuff they make now is not as hard as the stuff they made 10 years ago. The older stuff seems more like rock, and the newer stuff just seems softer and a bit more fragile. The old stuff probobably had some asbestos in it is my guess.

I've hung both, and as long as you use a framing nailer, and the diamond saw blade (I recommend table saw, circ saw will work), you're good to go. The also make a power sheer that they recommend, because you get no dust (wear a hepa mask when running the saw, and try to have wind blowing it away from you).

The hardiboard also gives you more sound insulation over vynle *which has about zero).

-bob

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Old 04-17-2009, 06:07 PM  
DaveyDIY
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I picked some up for free
My luck it happened to be the color we wanted - Boothbay Blue
So I figured I'd go pick up what contractors had left from doing a house
Thought I might be able to see what it looks like & how easy/hard to put up
Well 2 truckloads later I hafe about 6 SQUARE at my house
That's almost enough to do the whole back of my house!!

The wife likes the color
Which is good, with 6 sq free I wasn't changing the color



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