tglombardi

Hi all
Just wanted to get your thoughts on this. I have been roofing for about 6-7 years and have always put the ice and water protection on the first 3 feet and then the drip edge over the ice and water. After the drip edge I apply roll roofing as the starter and the the shingles. I have read that some people put the drip edge on before the ice and water protection. Doesn't the ice and water directly on the roof deck provide better protection?? My thinking was that if any ice damns were to raise the drip edge, the roof still has the ice and water protection.
Any thoughts/discussion would be appreciated!

nealtw

I am not a rooffer but I would think your ice shield is last stopper of water when you have ice. So you are putting it there for the water that gets to it, you wouldn't want that water to go under the drip edge.

kok328

Good question, not sure about the order of installation but, here in MI the code is to have water shield from drip edge to 2' beyond the exterior wall.
So if you have 2' of soffit, you need 4' of water shield.

oldognewtrick

All the installation specs I've seen show the drip edge installed first, then the ice and water shield. Water should always be allowed to shed with out restrictions, putting the drip edge over the water shield is like tucking your rain coat into your pants. I'm curious why you would use roll roofing as a starter? All shingle mfg's make a dedicated starter strip with a seal edge at the bottom. They spend a lot of money on research to see how all the components perform together.

tglombardi

Thanks for the input. The reason I put the drip edge over the ice and water protection is to protect the roof deck in case if water back up from ice damns. I use the roll roofing (or double coverage-half roll,half felt) as the starter because it is much larger and a better product than the 6 inch starter strips. The starter goes over the drip to allow the water to roll down if needed. The ice and water seals the deck to protect from ice backup. If the ice damns are bad like they were last winter, they can lift the drip edge up. If the shingles are installed right there shouldn't be any water hitting the ice and water. That is why I like this system. I learned it from a roofer who has been doing roofs for 35 years.
Before ice and water they used the wood starter shingles and those lasted. so the roll roofing as a starter I think is superior. We haven't had any leaks with this method, although it is probably a bit overkill.

inspectorD

Sorry O'l dog...but with Grace Ice and water sheild, they want the membrane down first. This is all I ever use, we call it "human fly paper".
Here is a link,
http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/template.cfm?page=/underlayments/roofing_faqs.html&did=8#roofdrip

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tglombardi

That is very interesting. That is why I asks the question because there doesn't seem to be a definite answer. I think the way I have been doing it works great.

nealtw

Call me stupid but, if you have ice build up on the roof and water backs up thru the shingles, the sheild is the last line of defence.
Why would you then allow the water to get under the drip edge?
With out ice you don't need a drip edge, it make sence that if water gets to the sheild you need to to protect the wood.

tglombardi

Good point. The drip edge also provides an avenue to get into the gutter. Another overkill step I do is add 1 1/8 inch piece of pt plywood (ripped down) against the fascia board so the drip edge sits out further to avoid any water traveling backwards to the fascia. I know the drip has the lower lip the is supposed to push the water out but this ensures the water rolls into the gutter and not behind the fascia.

nealtw

I found this line in this link (One more detail. The ice and water shield should stick firmly over the top of the drip edge on the soffit edge of the roof. )
http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/1567