willingtolearn

I agree with all of you 100%. I'm just trying to figure out a solution. This contractor was highly recomended by a good friend of mine. Turns out this contractor knows people I know.(Thats what happens when you live on an island.) The original contract called for him to build to plan. The plan just calls for flashing, it does not call for what kind. I called and asked him why he didn't use step; his response was it would be real hard to get step inbetween the hardieboard and frame. He said I will not have problems. Yes all the other homes have step flashing and most have kickouts where the roof terminates on a wall.
If worse comes to be and I call another roofer to do the job right, do they have to tear up the whole roof, or can they just remove the tabs of shingles closest to the wall?
This has been one very stressful job.
Thanks
Willing

oldognewtrick

What shingle mfg did you use?

willingtolearn

certainteed.

inspectorD

Bottom line...he is giving you a line of garbage.
Step flashing is easy to do on that wall. The existing flashing will be used as a counter flashing that covers over the top of the new step flashing you install. Give him the chance to come back and fix the problem, after you explain that " bad press on a small island" is more expensive than them doing the job correctly.

__________________
Just My
Made in the

joecaption

Installing Hardee planks need sheathing and Tyvek under it, (Download the install manual on the James Hardee web site) also any cuts he made needed to have the cut areas resealed with latex paint before the caulking took place, exposted cuts will cause the material near the cut to flake off.
In the last picture it looks like he ended the counter flashing right where there's a butt seam and is counting on the caulking to keep water out.
I would have continued it out about 1" at least passed the shingles so water would drop into the gutters.
Hardee board never lays perfectly flat againt the piece below it so without the sheathing and Tyvek under it water and wind can get behind the siding, if anything hits the siding with no support behind it it's going to blow a hole in it.

willingtolearn

Joe caption your right. Also thats not counter flashing, that IS the flashing. Thousands of these half to 1 million homes are made with no sheathing behind the hardie plank, hardie board.

Also If I do have hire someone else to finish the job correctly, does the whole roof need to come off?

Willing

oldognewtrick

Without being on the roof to say for sure, you SHOULD only have to remove the shingle near the wall from the sofit to the ridge.

joecaption

There's just a few I see that were left short for some reason that may need replacing.

willingtolearn

I talked to him today. He said the reason he did not use step is the tight space and also there is no blocking behind. He used the metal studs as blocking. He said the previous roof had blocking built into the studs as new construction. I told him maybe we can step flash over the continuous using it as blocking. I'm assuming the metal studs are 16 oc. Remember there is no sheathing behind the hardie only studs. He told me he will put kick outs in.

He's not sure about putting step over continuous. This might be a bad idea also, but I'm willing to try anything. He says he stands behind his work and I can call him even 15 years down the road. He laughed and said maybe not 20 years.

Willing

oldognewtrick

If it was there before, where did it go? Why if blocking was removed was it not replaced?