DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Roofing and Siding > Low slope roofing underlayment question.




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Old 04-01-2014, 06:36 PM  
oldognewtrick
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I'd stick with the SA sheets, they are easy to work with as long as you don't allow them to fold back on themselves, just don't pull the plastic sheet till you are sure where you want the sheet to set. Terminating on the wall requires the use of tern bar. You will have to drill into the concrete and attach with lead set drive pins or tapcon screws. The use of adequate amounts of roof cement is critical in the lap and edge details, don't skimp but don't over apply cause it can and will get messy if you're not careful.



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Old 04-01-2014, 07:39 PM  
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Originally Posted by nealtw View Post
Perhaps a photo of that problem area.
Photos of the roof to wall abutment attached.


img_0501.jpg   img_0502.jpg   img_0503.jpg   img_0504.jpg   img_0505.jpg  

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Old 04-01-2014, 07:53 PM  
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Well, now you've changed the price of poker. If it was my house, I would strip it back to the deck, add 3" of poly iso board. then put on you SA base and cap sheets. the hole in the wall will need whats called a scupper. this is a metal flange that installed and extends out past the wall to dump water into a collector box. I would suggest running the SA sheets up the wall, terminating with tern bar then putting a parapet cap on the wall to cover up the termination...I know, adding $$$ to your roofing project. But do it right and do it once.

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Old 04-01-2014, 07:56 PM  
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just don't pull the plastic sheet till you are sure where you want the sheet to set.
That is exactly the problem. I have to tuck the end/edge of the roofing under and up behind the flashing on the wall. No way to do this with the plastic sheet still attached because I would have no access to remove the plastic protective sheet. And if I remove the sheet first, there is no way to do the tuck without it sticking before I'm ready. That's why I was proposing to lay the SA cap sheet only an inch or two up the wall and then use a 12" strip of non-SA cap sheet to seal the abutment edge.

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You will have to drill into the concrete and attach with lead set drive pins or tapcon screws.
It's a frame wall with stucco - not concrete. However, the approach is identical, just different fasteners.
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:05 PM  
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http://www.certainteed.com/resources/RPG_FlintEdgeScuppersInstall.pdf

http://www.certainteed.com/resources/RPG_FlintEdgeInWallDriveLockRegletInstall.pdf

Couple other details sheets you may be interested in.
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Old 04-01-2014, 08:53 PM  
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I'm not a roofer but I would spend some time looking into the stucco on top of the walls. We have had plenty of leaky building with the stucco they used in the 70s,80s, and 90s. If you have any leaks close to one of those walls you might want to check that out before you do the roof.

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Old 04-02-2014, 02:38 AM  
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what he said.
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Old 04-02-2014, 01:54 PM  
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Thank you all for your valuable input. Between you guys and some on other discussion boards I have significantly increased my knowledge of the challenges of this project. I will do a much better job because of your help.

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Old 04-02-2014, 03:05 PM  
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Thank you all for your valuable input. Between you guys and some on other discussion boards I have significantly increased my knowledge of the challenges of this project. I will do a much better job because of your help.
We wish you nothing but the best outcome and don't forget to let us know how your project turns out.


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