D725A

Having an architectural shingle roof installed in NYS. Grace Shingle-mate is the underlayment. For some reason they started with that at midroof and worked their way up, then installed the Grace ultra ice/water shield from eave up. Seems they were able to keep the overlaps always top over bottom as you look from peak to eave. Usually from what I know they go from bottom to top. I noticed there were a few areas where light shows through the Shingle-mate; probably due to the staples hitting a space between the old tongue and groove decking. Should i have them patch that over with some pieces of tape or water shield or is that normal?

Where a porch hip roof meets a vinyl wall, can they install the proper flashing without temporarily removing the bottom part of the vinyl wall?

Shall I assume that no black roofing cement should be used (tar?) on the chimney? Contract calls for step, apron flashing and back pan around chimney. Counter flashing against chimney to ensure watertight area, copperwork soldered etc. Where the upper copper edge is placed in between bricks pointing mortar should be used yes?

thanks. I ask all this because some things have been done differently than I was told they would so then I feel I have to pay more attention.

oldognewtrick

The ice and water shield should be installed horizontally along the eave up the roof, 3' past the interior wall if the roof has a slope 4/12 or greater. Then the Shingle Mate installed horizontally the rest of the way with ice and water picture framing the ridge and hips. The laps should always be the top sheet over the bottom sheet.

The vinyl siding and bottom "J" channel will have to be removed at the area closet to the roof to remove the old flashing and install the new.

We always install new step flashing against the brick chimney, then caulk the top of the flashing to the brick prior to fabricating new counter flashing and new top and bottom pans with ice and water shield on the cricket and chimney sides. This does not show when the installation is complete.

nealtw

Oldog didn't address the holes made with a stapler. I would think if you put it there as a last defence against water, having holes in it kinda goes against common sence.

D725A

So the job is almost done; I'd say it came out OK. The underlayment could have been done more carefully, and they should have replaced more planks and with the kind of wood specified. The porch eave shingles--not pictured-- will have to be trimmed as they are over 2 inches over the drip edge.

One question I have is re: slotting the drip edge to allow it to accommodate the zip hangars which may allow in turn the drip edge to lean back closer to the rear wall of the gutter. In this case the gutters were re-installed after the drip edge was, so when they pushed up the rear gutter wall up behind the drip edge, they could only go up as far as the hangar screw. The angles the attached photos were taken at makes it difficult to see how far out the drip edge is bent forward. My main problem with this is not so much drip edge function or slight blocking of the gutter, but the space behind being a nice nesting place for bees etc, so I'm thinking of asking the workers to slot the drip edge at the hangar screws to allow the edge to be pushed back a bit, though I can't say how much closer the edge can be pushed back given the bottom kickout (bend). Maybe better to caulk the space.

In most places the eave shingles appear to be an acceptable length over the edge, except I can see in the distance at the rake it looks like it's covering too much of the gutter. Manufacturer says half an inch for eave with a drip edge, and 3/4" at rake with no drip edge.