broke

I thought I read that when a roof is replaced, it can be re-shingled over the old ones or stripped down and started over. (Now I've searched online and see that it is an option up to two additional layers.) ...

Is shingling-over quite acceptable?

What are the life expectancies of each?

It would seem the shingle-over method would be less expensive?

Thanks.

(We were just told that the new roofing was put on over the old roofing and that is bad and shouldn't be done.)

CraigFL

Usually roof loads are designed to handle up to two layers of asphalt shingles before you have to tear off. This would depend on the type of the #2 roof as well. Personally, I wouldn't go two layers unless the old layer is still good & waterproof. Tearing off an old roof isn't fun but at least you get a good start with the proper preparation.

inspectorD

Check to see if the shingles you select can do a shingle over. Some will NOT let you do the 2 layer thing without voiding the warrantee.
Also a shingle over needs to have the flashings tied into the new roof or you end up with leaks. Sometimes these leaks dont show up until it rains really heavy. This is when you do not want to have it happen.

Seen to many shingle overs leak, I call them band aids.

You get what you pay for.
InspectorD

__________________
Just My
Made in the

MONTY

Trim the 3rd shingle from the bottom WHERE THE HUMP IS THAT'S CAUSED BY IMPROPER STARTING PROCEDURES.
DONT TURN FIRST SHINGLE AROUND, THAT'S WHAT CAUSES THIS HUMP & TRAPS DIRT & ROTS FASCIA & SOFFIT.
LET THE TABS HANG IN THE GUTTER & CUT OFF TABS. THAT'S THE RIGHT WAY.
DONT HAVE ANY JOINTS ABOVE VENT STACKS.
CLIP 90* CORNERS TO AVOID DIRT TRAPS.
BUT TOPS OF SHINGLES TO BOTTOM OF OLD ONES AS A GUAGE & TO CONFORM SMOOTHLY.
DONT AIR NAIL.
DONT FELT.
MONTY

cibula11

Shingling over is acceptable usually up to 2 layers. However, after roofing for a few years, I can honestly say that getting rid of the old layers is a good idea. Less weight, no suprises with the sheathing below... If you tear off yourself, you can save a lot of money (about 1/2). Unless you need a really quick roof on, then I would look into tearing off the old and putting a new right back on to the sheatling.

Quattro

I'm planning to re-shingle in the spring of 2007. The house currently has original shingles from 1986. I want a steel roof, but I'll probably not be able to afford it.

So you guys say not to felt/paper the roof prior to shingles?

I will also be installing "dome" skylights at this time.

Thanks

wannabebuilder

I'm lazy - more than once I have done half a gable roof one year and the other half the next year. Don't leave them old shingles under- just asking for future problems. You want to know your deck is in good shape or fix it. Consider "architectural shingles" - very easy to install because you don't have to line up cut ends as carefully (as 3 tab) due to the texture hides it. Use "Lay-Flat" underlayment. It doesn't absorb moisture and pucker up overnight like roofing felt does. Use orange plastic washers and you can take your time on the shingles since the "Lay-Flat" is protecting your roof unless you get a windstorm.
Thats my 2 cents - Good Luck on it.

glennjanie

Shingle companies like to print 20 year limited warranty or even more. Believe me, that word Limited weighs an awful lot more than the word Warranty; they will find any excuse to renneg on them. It has to be done exactly by their instructions or you're out from the get-go. Most folks are lucky to get 12 years out of a shingle job; and, if "California Valleys" are used you may have a leak on the first rain.
The steel roof costs more than a layer of asphalt shingles but it will outlast the shingles 4 to 1, just paint it every 20 years. Steel is worth more!
Glenn

MTCquality

Glenn is right! Average shingle cost L&M is around 200-250 a square. We install standing seam all day long for 350-450. Not twice the price, but 4 times the life. You will shingle 4 times at an average of 5000 dollars per job, or pay 9000 for steel and 25 years from now 1200 for a coat of paint (if needed). The new paint coatings and CoolR steel is amazing even the people at BASF. And steel reflects heat away from the attic and is 70% recycled material, where your shingles emit gases and go straight to a landfill, only after they have cooked your attic by absorbing heat.

Not giving a sales pitch just stating facts that may help you take that extra step. I dont know your financials, but any reputable company should work with your budget and/or offer financing of some kind.

Thanks,

MTC