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**inspectorD** · 07-07-2006, 07:01 AM

Well this is a good start Will. Another thing to consider when you think you didn't charge enough,if that's the case,is that this is an education you would pay for. Kind of like contractor college. You will always learn from the experience.

Stay positive.
Good luck.

Will · 07-07-2006, 07:19 AM

300 per square just labor? or including materials?

**asbestos** · 07-08-2006, 04:17 PM

there is a saying somewhere

"it is not my emergency"
people are always anxious to make their problems your problems

Square Eye · 07-08-2006, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asbestos

there is a saying somewhere

"it is not my emergency"
people are always anxious to make their problems your problems

Yep,

that's a trap that many new contractors get into. You must set your parameters before you write the contract. Then when you do write it, only do what the contract spells out. I have lost my (imagine what) on a few jobs this way. The customer wants whatever he can get for his money and the guy you describe, "not having any money" may be one to lay a burden on you without intending to.

Good point Asbestos!

glennjanie · 07-08-2006, 08:48 PM

Will:
I was thinking total price but don't let me lower your price;I just said I wouldn't touch it for less.
I have done some tear off and replace for $100 per square (long ago) and still felt like I'd got the shaft. How many squares are you doing?
Glenn

Will · 07-12-2006, 03:54 PM

if we do the whole roof 12 squares. we already pretty much priced it out with materials so wed be working for pretty cheap considering all the danger and hassle involved if we did the whole job for 3600. The materials came to like 1800. So for two guys 1800 dollars for that jjob seemed too cheap. I said like 3000 labor. actually maybe I could go a LITTLE lower on that but I dont want to go too much. I guess theoretically I could make liek 1200 dollars and my helper could make 800, take the labor down to 2000, but I think we should get some more than that.

Square Eye · 07-12-2006, 04:08 PM

12 squares is a pretty small house, unless it's a two story.

glennjanie · 07-12-2006, 06:05 PM

Will:
My take is "stick with the 6k price"; there's nothing about it that's going to be easy and yes, you and your helper deserve to be paid for it.
Don't mention the lower price in front of the customer or he will take it. Once again, you'll find there's no one bidding against you. And, if someone wants the job for less, just let him lose his a-- and congratulate yourself on not losing yours.
Glenn

MONTY · 08-28-2006, 09:55 AM

HERE'S AN OPTION. MY SAYING IS I CAN WATERPROOF A BICYCLEIF IT GETS IN MY WAY.
ON A CLEAR, SUNNY DAY, BUY A FEW BUCKETS OF:
*ASPHALT/CLAY BASE EMULSION IN 5 GALLON CANS.
*WIDE, SOFT PUSH BROOM
*4 FT. WIDTH X 365' ROLL OF SPUN WOVEN POLYESTER FABRIC "RETRO-MAT"
CALL 817-451-2121...ABC SUPPLY IN FORT WORTH, TX. & TELL THEM YOU WANT THE 4 OZ. &* HAVE IT SHIPPED TO YOU. IT WEIGHS HARDLY ANYTHING. THROW A 4' ROLL ON THE ROOF. YOU JUST STOCKED WHAT IS EQUIVALENT TO 1,350 SFOF MEMBRANE IN LIEU OF 39 BUNDLES OF SHINGLES.
//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
*POUR OUT CLAY OVER SHINGLES & WORK IN WITH BROOM. IMMEDIATELY **ROLL OUT POLYESTER IN A RELAXED FORM. WRINKLES DONT MATTER.
***SOFTLY GLIDE BROOMOVER MAT TO CONFORM TO IRREGULAR SURFACE & EMBED...WHILE WET.
****ALLOW TO DRY AT LEAST AN HOUR & NOW TOPCOAT WITH EMULSION.
THIS WILL FORM A SEAMLESS MEMBRANE & WATERPROOFMEMBRANE WITH A PRODUCT THAT ONLY GETS BETTER AS IT AGES.
AS FAR AS CODE COMPLIANCE, YOUR MERELY INSTALLING A COATING, OR MAINTENANCE SYSTEM. THE WEIGHT OF WHAT YOU ARE INSTALLING WILL ONLY BE AROUND 80 LBS PER 100 SF.
*****APPLY ALUMINIZED ASPHALT EMULSION THE FOLLOWING DAY TO PRESERVE & REFLECT UV RAYS.
NOTE: IT'S SUGGESTED TO INSTALL A 2nd LAYER OF TOPCOAT ON THE 2nd DAY AFTER 1st LAYER CURES, OR DRIES OUT.
AVERAGE RATIO PER MAN: 18 TO 25 SQ. A DAY.
NOTE: I'D SAY RUN YOUR FABRIC VERTICALLY IN LIEU OF HORIZONTAL. THIS IS TO KEEP FROM TRACKING OVER NEWLY INSTALLED FABRIC WHILE WET.
LAP FABRIC BY 4".
ENSURE ALL WRINKLES ARE COATED & PRODUCT IS "WORKED IN"
DO NOT DRAG BROOM IN A LAZY MANNER ON BASE COAT. LIGHTLY PICK UP ON IT TO ENSURE A THOROUGH COATING OF BASE CLAY.
AS FAR AS CHIMNEY,WALLS, VENTSETC. SIMPLY RETROFIT A FABRIC UP ONTO & WET IN.
SINCE THIS IS A REMODEL TO EXISTING, IT'S TAX FRIENDLY.
ALSO, IF THERE'S ANY NAILS PROTRUDING, PULL OUT & SEAL WITH A RUBBERIZED PLASTIC CEMENT BEFORE COATING.
GOOD LUCK ON IT. THIS IS A SIMPLE SCOPE THAT WILL WORK FOR YAERS TO COME.
THE SCHOOL DISTRICTS IN LA HAS NOTHING BUT THIS ON ALL THEIR SCHOOLS.
MONTY

Handyman101 · 01-23-2007, 06:18 AM

Will, I can tell you this much.....Rip them shingles off a there...all o them, replace whatever plywood is bad (water-damadged), put down the felt, and New shingles....its tough but thats the only way! Down here in south carolina, the local garbage services, licensed by the state, have all kinds of recycling services. Shingles...they used to dump in in the landfills, but now they go to a recycling plant, where they are ground up, and the metal (nails etc) get removed by a separating process, the grind goes back into service on our streets, mixed up with other asphalt type stuff, gets steam-rolled/tarred....result: A nice smooth roadway, and a happy EPA!