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-   -   Sloped Roof Overhang Issue (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f34/sloped-roof-overhang-issue-15090/)

o2284200 11-13-2012 10:29 AM

Sloped Roof Overhang Issue
 
Hello,

I've got 2 sloped tile roof sections, one of which overhangs the other by 1-2 feet. There is a leak, which someone tried to patch where the lower roof section meets the wall under the over hang but it's very small area to work in. The overhang also appears to be holding water and sagging in the middle.

Your advise on how to handle these issues is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

oldognewtrick 11-13-2012 12:06 PM

Can you post a pic if the area you are talking about? A picture is worth a thousand words.

o2284200 11-13-2012 01:46 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here are some pics, thanks!

oldognewtrick 11-13-2012 03:45 PM

The saging appears to be from an undersized rafter that is carring to much unsupported weight.

There should be track flashing against the wall that is covered by the top roof section. This flashing would come down verticle (behind the wall trim board), make a 90 degree angle, extend under the tile that should be left away from the wall, then have a turn up verticle. This keeps water from being forced back under the tile. There should also be kick out flashing at the fascia board.

You should also have adaquate underlayment such as GAF Weather Watch Leak Barrier or Tamko Metal And Tile underlayment.

nealtw 11-13-2012 07:26 PM

I'm not sure if Oldog made a suggestion there but I would consider cutting back the higher over hang to about have of what you have now as the tile are to heavy for that structure. While you have that open you would have access to the lower roof and make whatever changes that are need to made there.

o2284200 05-31-2013 11:08 AM

Thanks! What do you think of this rebuild of the overhang as well as the copper flashing job and would you leave the copper exposed or paint over it?

FWIW, my chimney guy and the sheet metal co making my new custom chimney cover/cap, both recommended I NOT have it made in copper but rather stainless steel.

BEFORE:
http://imageshack.us/a/img812/3589/dsc0061zo.jpg


AFTER:
http://imageshack.us/a/img12/3857/dsc0690n.jpg

Also decided to get rid of the brick finish on the stucco chimney...Did the same to the brick finish on the first floor front of the house too...just not in this pic.
http://imageshack.us/a/img46/3050/dsc0141az.jpg

nealtw 05-31-2013 12:14 PM

So you support the upper roof down to the lower roof, I hope your support landed close to a rafter in the lower roof. You will be saving a lot of weight by not tiling that area. I would still expect some movement in this area, so you stll want step flashing against the copper there. It sure looks better than it did.

oldognewtrick 05-31-2013 03:43 PM

The reason they advised you to fabricate the flashings and cap out of stainless is water wash off from the copper will turn the stucco green.

o2284200 05-31-2013 09:16 PM

Thanks!
Only the chimney cover/cap was recommended in stainless steel. The flashing is all copper so, I'm going to have copper flashing but a stainless steel chimney cap.

That said, would you leave any of the copper flashing exposed obviously showing the 2 different metals or paint over some or all of the copper flashing?

GBR 06-01-2013 02:26 PM

It appears you added flashing on the face of the wood board & batten siding, then stucco over it. This will not work because the stucco will absorb moisture, saturating it and wetting the wood under it, expanding and breaking the seal and bond between the two dissimilar materials. Hence why they stucco on wire mesh or screen. A drainage gap is important from two layers of building paper under the stucco to prevent bonding; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-029-stucco-woes-the-perfect-storm

In addition, the 1x2 battens and boards require movement, for drying/expansion/contraction; http://www.cedar-siding.org/cedar-siding-installation/how-to-install-cedar-siding/board-and-batten.aspx

Gary


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