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buffalo 12-29-2013 09:50 AM

some roof questions

buffalo 12-29-2013 10:21 AM

Tried posting pics from my gallery but it wont work from my cell phone.

Once weather breaks I want to roof this tarped section of my roof. Right now there are a couple square plastic vents roofed in and that's it. It was an inlaw setup but I'm going to make it one large master the interior will get gutted , some beams installed for load bearing walls , and looking into weather the current stick built roof needs to be beefed up.I believe its all 2x4. The living space is aprox 22'x22' . Give or take a foot. The roof has a single layer of shingles over some 1x4 tounge and groove board.

My first question is about venting. There is no soffit so a ridgevent would be worthless? What are my options? Can I build an extension to the roof to come out another foot , at a different angle and create a soffit and then cut a ridge vent? That might also help keep snow and rain away from the house?What are my options?

My second question is about the type of roof I want to install. I was thinking about going with a metal roof. I know the materials will cost more , but I'm thinking it will be a lot easier for me and I could do it with a friend a lot quicker.looking around online I see a lot of aluminum roofs with exposed screws and 30guage metal. They seem kinda cheesy . I'm told expansion and contraction can pull the screws around and the rubbers on the screws can fail over time.
I'm a sheetmetal worker by trade , mainly HVAC , but years back I worked for an archetectual company and installed a few standing seam roofs where the clips and screws are concealed. So then I'm thinking even a step further and why don't I just make my own panels and gutters out of a 26 guage stainless steel. I have acess to breaks and shears and such. I've soldered stainless before , I know that's a pain , one job was a chemical plant and all roof components had to be stainless.I really haven't done a price check yet to see the cost differance between a prefab and me just buying my own sheets but I'm guessing its got to be significant. Am I crazy here?

nealtw 12-30-2013 12:15 AM

Stainless sounds expensive, but let's leave that for now and look at the rest of the problems. If you had a new roof framed today, the rafters would be 2x10s with 2x4 straping above that to allow for venting above the insulation. The heel cut is what we measure from the top of the wall on the outside to the underside of the sheeting so a 2x10 rafter with a seat cut to sit on a 2x4 wall with a 2x4 stapping would have a heal cut of about 7.5 inches, engineered trusses are built with a simular heel cut.
If your 2x4 rafters have a seat cut to sit on the wall you will have a heel cut from 0 to 3.5 inches so extending the tails on the rafter will not give you enough space above the wall for insulation and air flow.
Normally we would say to add material to the bottom of the rafters to allow for more insulation but even with that you could still have a problem with ice dams if you are in a cold zone.
I do want to see the photos both inside and outside of the house and welcome to the site.

buffalo 01-01-2014 03:21 PM

Hey neal thx for the response . I'm the same guy you were advising in the introduction thread . I got on a laptop today and fixed the pics . I figure a 4x10 sheet of 26ga SS costs me about 100$ . The metal cost would be between 2-3K for that job including gutters and all . Sometimes I get carried away and maybe im on overkill mode?

Like you said , leaving that aside for now , you can see in the pics I have no soffit . Ice dams are all around my house , the current gutters are worthless even in summer . Right now I have a foot of snow all over the roof and iceickels from the roof to the ground (I do break what I can) .

The ceiling in this space is only 7'5" . Maybe I'm better off just extending the walls and installing trusses? I have a ton of work though and I
hate to devote to much money to this small area of the house .

I do have short videos too , is there a way to post those , or maybe just a youtube link? I cant get into the attic without opening up from the inside and its in the teens and singles digits this time of year so those pics will have to wait a bit . Right now that area is on a hydronic baseboard zone I been keeping at 45F since Im on oil and its costing me a fortune . (Yes my cheap butt sleeps in there , and no , my wife doesn't)

buffalo 01-01-2014 03:41 PM

buffalo 01-01-2014 03:46 PM

This is probabaly a bad interpretation of what I was thinking ....but could I cut triangle framing and add it to the bottom of my roof like in the picture above , at the back right of the structure? That would give me an overhang/soffit , with a cavity for air to travel up to a ridge vent?

nealtw 01-01-2014 10:24 PM

Yes that would work, we have also added swoops on the edge of the roof for the same effect but the curved fasia on the end is a ****. You already have a prety low slope so those fixes may be questionable. Your quicker fix might be just to add 2x8 rafter right on top of the old roof, 6 inches of insulation before new sheeting. A level cut on the bottom to meet a 2x4 liner and you will have maybe 8 or 10 inches for vented soffet that would still be above window height and a ridge vent on the top.

buffalo 01-02-2014 02:06 PM

So basically that would almost be building a New roof over the existing? Would i have to worry about the added weight? I gotta snap some pics and beg your advise as to weather the existing framing is sufficient , in my own unexperienced opinion , I think its not so good.

At that point might i be better off cutting the whole roof right off and ordering trusses? Then I can raise the ceiling a couple feet too ? I want to be cheap , but I want it to be right. An even balance I suppose. I know the main house is gonna cost me a bit. As long as I'm framed and water tight I don't mind spending years on the interior.

nealtw 01-02-2014 02:47 PM

If you go with new trusses, have the truse company add the inhches you need you would'nt want to just add to the wall for extra height it would be a weak point.
If you were going to add new rafters above, you would add a new ridge board also you would just have to beef up the support on each end for the ridge beam, The lower end of the rafters would put weight on the exterior wall. Either way, it should be run past an engineer anyway.

With new trusses you could leave the walls low and do it with sissor trusses for a vaulted ceiling with out adding much cost, if any.

buffalo 01-02-2014 04:38 PM

I had thought about step vaulting the ceiling as is , if I left the roof framing , and it was worthy . I would have to have exposed joists , but somehow make it look good. If I went this route , what is the best option for venting without a ridge vent?

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