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Old 03-07-2014, 10:06 AM  
buffalo
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:16 AM  
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So I'm back to the original plan of just tackeling the inlaw roof . The walls between living room/bedroom and kitchen/bathroom are load bearing . I've already taken out the kitchen/living room. I peeked into the attic last week its all 2x4 stick build except the joists are 2x6. It's full of a bunch of yucky old ,blown in looking , insulation. I want to make this one big masterbed , maybe put a half bath in there. I was thinking about a big master bath , but we really don't need that I suppose .

So the plan is once the heating season is over I demo the interior and roof , leaving only the exterior walls. Then set trusses , roof , and I have the summer to drywall/wire/paint ect. I was thinking about building 2x4 walls over the existing ones for 2x the insulation.


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Old 03-07-2014, 04:55 PM  
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If you add the walls inside then you could add to the existing walls to make them full height, that wiyulkd make the stiff enough.. Except you have to be carefull, if you don't end up raising the other roof, you don't want the inlaw roof to be high than the house and that may be why it is lower, in that case, I would look at sissor trusses and leave the wall height alone. The truss company would want to know how thick your walls are for sissor trusses.
I guess at this point all you can do with the house is draw up the plans, showing the exsisting 2x6 floor and see if they will let you get away with it.
Where I am you wouldn't need a permit to repair the roof on the suite.
In some areas there is a dollar value that a home owner can get a permit for, so you might to do it as unfinished space.

You said you had been doing some beam work, remember to keep in mind where the load is going in the basement. If the origanal wall were only carring the ceiling you may need to double up some floor joist below.

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Old 03-07-2014, 06:07 PM  
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Yea I need a permit . I wouldn't need a permit if it was only shingle work. It's somting like 100$ plus 5$ per 1000 spent so whatever. I haven't touched any load bearing walls in the main structure . Good idea about making the walls higher , haven't thought about that.

Have any advise on how to size beams for load bearing walls? Is like to have a plan set , so when I run it buy an engineer its basically.done and he just has to approve it.

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Old 03-07-2014, 06:45 PM  
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The height difference with the main house would be the only question. As far as sizing beams, above my pay grade. I can find span charts and figure live and dead loads and snow loads but seldem get it right because the engineers are looking at a lot more or should be, they don't like it when you over size the beam too. Didn't make sence to me until he explained, he had required a 5.5" x 9.25" beam and we installed the 5.5" x 12" that the lumber yard delivered. He said some day some engineer will look at that beam and think he can add (X) more weight to it and if someone did that they would be overloading the foundation and footing as they were designed for the smaller beam.

In your basement it looks like everthing up the middle is being carried by some steel and wooden posts. If that is all there is then the walls running the other way upstairs that are bearing the floor above or the floor that you would like to use up there. Then the beam will want to run full distance so the load is landing abaove the foundation wall and the center beam in the basement.

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Old 03-11-2014, 11:25 AM  
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I'm starting to make a material list. As far as gutters go , is there a type that has a flange attached to the gutter that rides up the roof? Then you could ice and water shield over that flange? If not what style do you recommend?

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Old 03-11-2014, 04:13 PM  
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Usually the roofer is up there first, if there is something like that, I have't seen it.
When you have figured your list, add 30 length of 2x4.

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Old 03-12-2014, 05:28 PM  
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http://freezeblock.com/
You should be able to solve ice damming with ventulation.


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