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Old 01-07-2014, 02:31 PM  
buffalo
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Im really diggin that 45degree , drip edge vent idea.I ran across a thread you replied to a ways back. The guy posted this product.http://www.everflovent.com/pro_inhaler.html

I could easly fab somthing like that up at work.Then the drip edge vent is actually unable to get water in it behind the gutter( I wouldnt include that "inhaler vent") .



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Old 01-07-2014, 02:31 PM  
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That would work no matter what type of roof I put down. Im kinda liking the metal roof idea because I can do it myself quickly , and without tearing off the single single layer there now. If I did go the make my own route I have acess to cheap metal and shops to fab. The one shop has a brake that is computerised , you punch the numbers into the program and it sets the depth and angle of brakes and does it all . You just have to flip or rotatethe peice when needed.

Favor time is gonna come with the next roof to the main house. I want to cut it all off and order trusses , build a couple walls androof it in a weekend. Maybe rent a lull .then im gonna need some hands.that may have to wait till the next summer .



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Old 01-07-2014, 03:12 PM  
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Maybe rent a lull .??

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Old 01-07-2014, 03:59 PM  
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It will be kind of tall being on the 2nd story. The pic is from the back side of the house as opposed to the front , which mkes it look single story. Figure I could cut off sections of the old with it and lift off , lift up wood for walls , set trusses , and lift whatever roofing I decide up.

Lull being a telescoping forktruck. Im certified so I dont see a problem with them renting me one. Hopfully get a good rate through work. We have them everywhere . Dozens at a time during peak season.
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Old 01-07-2014, 04:18 PM  
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Now I get it. Should be handy for taking things down. We had one handy on a douplex house one time we didn't find it handy enough. We coordinate deliveries with crane trucks so we never have to hand bomb lumber around or up. We evan have the roof sheeting on the floor before we drop the trusses on top. we lay the trusses on the side so we can sheet the gables before they are stud up. Stand on top of a wall is a little scary sometimes.

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Old 01-07-2014, 04:38 PM  
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Buffalo. if you are going to put a metal roof on, PLEASE tear off the existing shingles and put on a heat resistant underlayment made for hard surface roofing. If you leave the shingles, they will cook under the metal, curl and distort the metal pans. I've even seen them fracture the seams and cause numerous leaks. It's penny wise and dollar foolish to roof over the shingles. Trust me, I'm a roofer.

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Old 01-08-2014, 05:24 PM  
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Now I get it. Should be handy for taking things down. We had one handy on a douplex house one time we didn't find it handy enough. We coordinate deliveries with crane trucks so we never have to hand bomb lumber around or up. We evan have the roof sheeting on the floor before we drop the trusses on top. we lay the trusses on the side so we can sheet the gables before they are stud up. Stand on top of a wall is a little scary sometimes.
Yea a crane would probabaly be ideal. But I'm not qualified and hiring an operator would cost me more. You guys that do this for a living have your timing/ coordination and methods down to a tee. I'm just trying too mooch your knowledge without being too sloppy
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Old 01-08-2014, 05:30 PM  
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Buffalo. if you are going to put a metal roof on, PLEASE tear off the existing shingles and put on a heat resistant underlayment made for hard surface roofing. If you leave the shingles, they will cook under the metal, curl and distort the metal pans. I've even seen them fracture the seams and cause numerous leaks. It's penny wise and dollar foolish to roof over the shingles. Trust me, I'm a roofer.
Thx for the advise and if I go metal i will tear them off. What exactly is a heat resistant underlayment? Are there different types for different applications?
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:26 PM  
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People like yourself hang around big box stores to much. They will rent you a truck to take your lumber home. Find a real lumber yard in your area, they will have trucks of all sizes with and with out cranes. Here a drop load will cost about $60 and a crane will cost about $100 which includes about 15 minutes of crane time. You will have an advantage as half your floor is already in place so once you have cleared the debrea you will be able to have pre-cut studs wall sheeting and floor sheeting all delivered to the floor. Have your wets and joist delivered on the ground but make sure the wets are at least 14ft so you can lean up to to the house. Wets are the 2x4s or 2x6s for top and bottom plates and such and yeas you order wets, they are cheaper and they straighten out as you nail them in place. We would order the roof sheeting on a later order but you might have room for that too along with all the stuff to finish.
I doubt if your fork lift would be able to deliver all that material to the floor at the back of the house from the front.
Just some stuff to think about. The picture is a lumber real lumber truck.
On TV we see people pulling trusses up by hand from the ground, they lay them flat and pull them over the side wall and bend them. With the trusses comes a full set of instructions and the first page is the big warning about how to pick up the trusses or how not to pick up the trusses. You would have to be able to pick them up in the center with a chain and set them on the house and if not, get them delivered with a crane.

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Old 01-08-2014, 07:56 PM  
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Thx for the advise and if I go metal i will tear them off. What exactly is a heat resistant underlayment? Are there different types for different applications?
Organic, 15/30lb felt, will break down under the heat. We use a material made by Tamko, called Metal and Tile underlayment. It's similar to Weather Wach, but it has a higher heat resistance. You can install this over your ply and have a 90 day UV exposure. There are some other synthetics that are good also, GAF, makes a product called Tiger Paw, that holds up well to UV and is also used a lot under hard surface roofing.


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