DIY Home Improvement, Remodeling & Repair Forum > DIY Home Improvement > Roofing and Siding > some roof questions




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Old 01-09-2014, 03:26 AM  
buffalo
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It's time for me to really start pricing everything out. If I do shingles what kind are the best?



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Old 01-09-2014, 06:15 AM  
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If you do shingles, stick with either GAF or Certainteed.

If you do metal, don't forget all the accessories. You need to price the metal itself, lock strip along the eave, rake detail, valleys, ridge cap, Z bar for the cap and rakes, butyl tape, screws, wall flashing and flashings for your plumbing boots.



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Old 01-22-2014, 04:06 PM  
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Alright after thinking about it a bit I'm droping all my crazy ideas and listening to you guys. I'm thinking about doing the entire roof for the whole house on one shot. I gotta rip 2 roofs off , and set trusses. Then I will use shingles recommended. If you look at my previous pics , on the main house , I need to build new walls on half the house in order to set trusses.I downloaded a drafting program sweethome3d to lay out my plans. I will want scissor trusses throughout for ceiling height. I priced out my crane and lull idea. A lull will cost me 1500 a month , crane 135$ hr. Although the crane I priced is prob to big. Anyway I still have questions.

1). What do I sheet my trusses with? Particle board ( osb?) Seems crappy , do you guys use plywood? What's recommended?

2). My drafting program seems like more of a final 3d view " apperance" program. I'm looking for some rough framing programs , any advise here?

3). I have plans for additions , which may include sliding glass doors , windows , in the existing sturcture that I may not get to till later. I know the basics of walls , but I'm unsure of framing requirements for windows and doors . I know size can vary , but can I prep the framing for things to be added in the future and in the now , just have it framed and fill with insulation untill I cut it open?

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Old 01-22-2014, 04:39 PM  
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Before we bought a Lull, thats about what we were paying. Cant you set the trusses with the Lull?

If I were going to deck a house I was going to live in it wouldn't be OSB, it would be Advanteck...just my

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Old 01-22-2014, 05:04 PM  
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You will have to watch the thickness of the floor, 2x10 floor joist that we use will shrink to about 9 1/4" and you will want to match the thickness of the plywood or? subfloor.
I would use OSB roof sheeting for walls and roof it has lines printed for 16 and 24" on center nailing, even when they don't land on a stud the line helps.
If you want I will tell the horrors of using plywood, it cost more and it's quality, my a!!.
I have had a program by 3D Home Architect, basic but does the job, Just google them, for some reason I can't copy and paste there address.
We don't rent cranes, we just have thing delivered with trucks with cranes. Time saved is well worth the cost.

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Old 01-22-2014, 05:36 PM  
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I would use OSB roof sheeting for walls and roof it has lines printed for 16 and 24" on center nailing, even when they don't land on a stud the line helps.
If you want I will tell the horrors of using plywood, it cost more and it's quality, my a!!.
.
Well, we agree to disagree, every house I've roofed with OSB was crap...sorry. I don't like how it swells when it absorbs moisture. Maybe your experience with OSB has been better.
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:39 PM  
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Before we bought a Lull, thats about what we were paying. Cant you set the trusses with the Lull?

If I were going to deck a house I was going to live in it wouldn't be OSB, it would be Advanteck...just my
My train of thought was lifting the old roof off( in sections) and lift the new roof with a lull. Trusses and flooring and shingels ect.. with the lull. Although a crane would prob be easier , a lull will be cheaper with a lot more time to use. Don't think I could use the delivery crane , I need to have the trusses delivered while having the existing roof demoed , I'm not that good. I think I could get a good 5-10 guys for a weekend. I been banking favors for 10 yrs.

Any advise on pricing trusses? I'm gonna start calling next week. Is it basically , a start calling for prices with dimensions thing? Local would be cheaper?
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Old 01-22-2014, 05:44 PM  
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You will have to watch the thickness of the floor, 2x10 floor joist that we use will shrink to about 9 1/4" and you will want to match the thickness of the plywood or? subfloor.
I would use OSB roof sheeting for walls and roof it has lines printed for 16 and 24" on center nailing, even when they don't land on a stud the line helps.
If you want I will tell the horrors of using plywood, it cost more and it's quality, my a!!.
I have had a program by 3D Home Architect, basic but does the job, Just google them, for some reason I can't copy and paste there address.
We don't rent cranes, we just have thing delivered with trucks with cranes. Time saved is well worth the cost.
I know osb is cheaper I've had some fall apart in my rainy outdoors , while plywood can take a beating. Obviously with a Proper roof you shouldnt have this concern. Talk to me guys. And what thickness? What are the pros and cons?
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:02 PM  
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Thickness is min. code for your area, here it is 7/16. for the roof and walls that will be covered with anything but vinyl siding.
We just finished two custom houses, both used 1/2 plywood for everything and it rains here, just a little. Evan when we kept the plywood under tarps it swells with the moisture and warps. Makes it really hard to get it in the "H" clips on the roof. We had some rejected by the roofer because it delaminated when it got wet, 30 sheets had to come off on a 16/12 section of the roof and it's slimey to walk on when it is wet.
OSB will swell, so just keep a cover on it untill you use it, no problem.

Framing in for window and doors for future use is no problem. Headers that are more than 5ft want two jack studs under each end. windows are rough framed to the size of the window as in a 3. 0 x 5. 6 window the rough opening will be 36" wide and 66" high
Doors are 82 1/2" high and 2" wider than the door, so a 3. 0 x 80" door, the rough opening is 38" x 82 1/2". For an out swing door lower it by an inch.
A double door exterior door add three inches to the two doors so 36 +36 + 3
A double interior door, just add the 2 inches
Sliding glass patio door are windows so you frame them like 72" wide and 80" high.
And yes after you frame in a window, just add studs that can be removed later.

Getting prices on trusses can be tricky, trusses have to be engineered and guess who pays for that, sometimes you can get that done and shop for prices but usually you are stuck with the guy that had that work done. You do want to get onto people that buy trusses and find out who is the bargain outfit and who gives more problems than they are worth.
One of our very good outfits got bought out latey. We expect some mistakes from time to time but we had 6 major problems on one house with this outfit.

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Old 01-25-2014, 06:09 PM  
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I ended up downloading a program called sketchup , ill start messing with it tomarrow.

I have some questions on tools. I'd like a nice saw and a nailgun. I have a large kobalt stationary compressor already with hoses to reach anywhere. On a Job the other day a carpentar had a nice dewalt saw on a table that cuts angles and straight cuts . All I currently have is a hand held circuliar saw. I don't mind buying tools ill have forever.

So my question is what kind of saw and nailguns should I bee looking at? I'm proba alt just construction simple walls with windows and doors. And I'd like a nailgun that I can use for framing and roofing. Can you change the nail types in most guns? I'm just looking for some equipment to get me through this adventure , I'm obviously not making a career out of it.



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