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Old 01-29-2014, 08:55 AM  
nealtw
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We're in an earthquake zone everything is strapped down, bolted down, bolted together, stress walls are added. Even bookshelves and refrigerators are supposed to be tied to the wall. We do have a strapshot gun just for hangers and straps.
I have seen two truss sets blown down with a gust of wind while men are working on them, one friend broke his neck when his fell knocking him off the building, scary stuff. It makes you understand that nothing can be trusted, temp braces must be in place at all times and as soon as you have a few up, even with the midline straps for layout you add angle brace on the top surface. If you keep all of that in mind you will be fine until you plumb up the gable which can't be done until almost everything is done and then most of the time all temp braces have to be removed to adjust it.
We never get to work on a house like this one, designers like hips, valleys, fake gables. We just did a big house with a 16/12 pitch three sets of trusses. Trusses on top of trusses, vaulted ceiling 18ft high and hand framed timber trusses. It was a test. The best part was the engineer spent hours inspecting it and past it without a call back.



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Old 01-31-2014, 01:31 PM  
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Well i had the day off today and went down and talked to the building inspector. I then went into work and had one of our guys in the CAD department do me a simple layout. I think I will be using him for CAD from here on. I'll try and post the simple layouts when I get to a computer, id like your opinion on a couple things. Next step is to hit up a lumber yard .

I do have a couple questions , but I want to read over the posts a bit to be sure I'm not missing it.



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Old 01-31-2014, 02:27 PM  
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I found some instructions that will be helpfull http://www.tpic.ca/english/pdf/handling.pdf
I also found this site about these people building a garage. They made lots of mistakes and did alot of it the hard way but it might give us things to talk about.
Mistakes on quick reveiw. Window framing, wall squaring, wall sheeting, angle bracing the trusses temp and perminent, catwalks and tie braces (not shown) Window installation ?
Done the hard way, handing up plywood over side (safer and easier from inside the building) sheeting the gable and building the ladder for the lookouts and tail liner last (all tails are not equall and liner should be put on level and straight before sheeting)
We are a little ahead here we also need to look at laying out for walls and wall construction, bracing and a bunch of other details
http://www.toadmama.com/ex_walls.html

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Old 02-04-2014, 06:34 AM  
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One thing im confused about or reading wrong , you don't sheet any of the roof until all the trusses are set correct?

The first truss should be perfectly plumb and braced , are you saying I may have to tweak trusses as I sheet so they end up on center?

Im unsure of what catwalks and tie bracing refers too. The lookouts are bracing on the under side of the trusses? Lookouts and tailliners would be the portion of the roof that extends past the exterior wall?

I read the 2 links you gave me last night . Very helpfull , thanks for digging them up. Is like to understand all of your thoughts on thier mistakes , maybe I should start with the walls. I'm going to build 2x6 walls . I'm not sure what by code I will need as far as windows. Technically its already a 2nd floor living space , but will i be required to add windows , I'm going back to the building inspector todqy though for those answers. The wall I'm building along the front of the house will be part of 3 bedrooms. I was thinking of framing a sliding glass door in each as down the road I'd like a deck.

Hopefully I can upload a pic of my cad which will be a little more clear.

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Old 02-04-2014, 10:07 AM  
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I will try typing slower so you can keep up.
After all the trusses are stud and nailed on the end walls, with a 1x4 running across the top section about half way up on both side on lay out
Then you add a catwalk, which is nothing more than a 1x4 running across the top of the ceiling portion on lay out, one ever ten ft of truss these run perpindicular to the truss.
Now you have a unit with all the trusses nail at the ends and bottom cord running straight. You nail the trusses to the interior wall. While some one is climbing around up there you add drywall backing to the top of the interior walls. Wall running same direction as the trusses can have a 2x6 on a 2x4 wall to catch drywall on both sides. Walls that are still not held in place stiff can have blocks nailed between the trusses and nailed to the wall,
Only then you can plumb the gable end with an angle brace( 14ft 2x4 from near top inside of gable down to the top surface of the ceiling cord and nail it to a 2x4 block that is nailed across 2 or 3 trusses down there) You don't do this while the wind is blowing as all other braces may have to be removed to plumb up the gable.
If you have done everthing perfect the other gable will be plumb just add the brace (good luck with that) it never happens, you will have to plumb that end too.
The liner is a 2x4 nailed on the ends of the truss tails.
As you know lumber comes bent a wavy all over the place there is reall nothing holding the top cords straight for when you nail the sheeting to them, you need something to help with that.
Having the liner nailed to the trusses on layout will keep that end in place. The 1x4 you have nailed across the top surface half way up will help but you will still want to check layout on each sheet
until you get close to the 1x4s. and then remove the 1x4s. Osb has lines printed on it to help with nailing.
Ridge block can be added before you sheet if you can reach the peak from inside is the best time. The trusses should have a space between them like 22.5. The trusses will have joiner plates in the way so 22.5 will not fit, we subtract 1/16" and find that works most of the time, get that wrong or have the blocks a little off straight and the layout will screw up in a hurry so that wants to be checked as you go. If you can't reach the peack you waite until the sheeting is up close but then the blocks will have to be cut to fit as the layout will always be off a little.

The look out is the 1 ft that sticks out over the end of the gable ends. I said 1 ft because that is easy anything more requires a whole lot more work and problems you don't need to get into.
There are a few ways to do this. what we do is . Cut four 2x4s exacly the same as the top cord of the truss and a bunch of 9" blocks.
After sheeting the gable end we add one of our 2x4s along the top nailed thru the sheeting into the top cord of the truss one. The top block on each side is the only one that is improtant for placing. They want to be placed so that the bottom corner of each is touching each other. One block every three or so ft is good and then add the other 2x4 on top of the blocks. We do all this while the gable is laying flat on to of the pile of trusses and then stand it up.

When I have time I will look over that link to see if I can find more things to talk about.
Two sliding glass doors. The city will require that you have keyed locks on then until you have the deck built. I would frame them in and stud and sheet over them until you have the deck built.
Vinyl or fibreglass decks are now considered a roof and should be built 6" below the floor of the house and the vinel decking wants to go up the wall and under the door, so the doors will have to be removed to put the vinyl down.
Headers that are 5ft and larger must have 2 jack studs on each side so a 72" sliding glass patio door (window) the rough opening is 72" wide and 80 inches high and the header will be 2 2x10s nailed together 3 nails every 16 inches 78 inches long. Real doors are different.

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Old 02-04-2014, 11:34 AM  
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Thx for your patience Neil . Very good explinations and I'm pretty straight on what has to happen now. Couple questions.I was planning on looking into scissor trusses. The 1 story inlaw area is approx 7'6" from floor to existing joist. The 2 story area is approx 7'0" from floor to joist . This would give me a better ceiling height.

At 7' I wouldn't have the height to allow for the ruff opening of a slider correct ? Are there shorter ones?

My outside stud dimensions are approx 22' , so what is a typical soffit , 2' ? If I purchase a 4/12 roof , the center of my truss will only be apox 4' tall. I would be looking at a 26' end to end truss.

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Old 02-04-2014, 12:04 PM  
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I would go up to a 6/12, the lower you go the more work will have to be done after they are installed, tee bracing and such that will be in the instructions to make them strong enough for what ever snow load you might require. and you have a better chance of walking around in them for flat ceiling.
I would go with vaulted on the lower roof and then you will need to go 6/12 outside and get 4/12 inside a little trickier to assemble but not impossible.
The upper roof I would build the new walls with full height pre cut studs knok the top plates off and add studs beside the old ones and bring them up to height if the old exterior is 2x4 just make the new studs and top plates 2x6 and later you could add the 2" where needed to bring the rest of the wall out to 2x6. I would raise the headers in the old walls too.
Vaulting in the upper roof only if it is one big room as usually they are flat and vault one room,say a master bedroom or bath. If you vault the whole thing then the interior walls have to be built later to meet the ceiling height.
On a 6 or 4 / 12 the tales close to 2ft usually. they don't want them to interfere with the windows, the higher the pitch the shorter the tales with an eight foot ceiling. With a nine foot ceiling you lower the windows to allow for longer tails. So yes you would be close to 26 ft give or take.

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Old 02-04-2014, 12:33 PM  
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http://www.pahi.org/sitebuilderconte...ngineering.pdf
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Old 02-04-2014, 12:52 PM  
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I have a diy friend that has been talking about the roof for his new garage for a while. He just called me to ask if he could be a grunt on the roof job so he could learn, I'm not sure how the insurance will work but I told him he could be a non working looky loo. Not a bad idea.

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Old 02-04-2014, 04:03 PM  
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First floor exterior wall floor plan . (all existing walls)



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