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Old 02-04-2014, 04:15 PM  
buffalo
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Ok , I kinda figured that was gonna be imposable to read. One thing I hate about this house is no internet connection. Everything is off my phone , or a laptop in conjunction with my wifes hotspot , and no mouse! All slow and impossible to maneuver.


From the pic you can probabaly make out some points I do have questions on . The lower square is the inlaw setup , the upper rectangle is the main house . My measurements were taken from outside of stud to outside of stud in the basement . In a perfect world I would assume the stud layout should end up the same on the second floor , for a truss length I would have to take the outside stud demsion and add to it the sheathing thickness on both sides correct?

My big question , I know the dimensions are not legiable....but the main house steps out 8" for some reason towards the top 18'8" of the floor plan . Can I just install the exact same size trusses on the second floor and build the new wall accordingly to accept them? I would then have to weather in the 8" exposed on the outside at the 2nd floor 'floor level' .

obviously you wouldn't stager the ridge line . Or would the lumber yard make a truss to take that into account and I build the walls with the exact OD of the first floor?



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Old 02-04-2014, 04:59 PM  
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Outside of sheeting to outside of sheeting is the correct way to measure the house. Missing the measurement by a 1/2 to 3/4 can be dealt with no one will know. I pointed out that step back earlier and you just rip down the wall fill in the floor if it's not there and build a new wall. You will be re-siding that end of the house above the garage anyway.
Oh; that eight inches, that pic is back one page. The house was designed to have a gable facing the front. That would add cost and tricky work. Just tell the truss company that you want all the trusses to line up no jogs, they will have to add some to the rest of the trusses as the bairing point has moved. Likely they would add a peice of 2x4 into the truss over the wall.



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Old 02-04-2014, 05:00 PM  
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If you check my post#58 you can see how the front gable is put up with a gable and a valley set.

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Old 02-04-2014, 05:09 PM  
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Neal, the link you posted in post number 53 shows the framing of the exterior walls and they are putting the plywood on verticle to the wall studs. I always thought that ply was installed on the horizonal to the wall studs. Roof decking always goes on horizonal.

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Old 02-04-2014, 05:22 PM  
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I posted that one just so we could find the mistakes and talk about them. As I understand it plywood is omnidirectional and osb has a direction it should be used but I have installed both in both direction and never had it failed. On the roof we put the sheeting on across the trusses but when you get a hip 4 ft from a valley we turn it the other way, never had that fail either.

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Old 02-05-2014, 07:10 AM  
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I would go up to a 6/12, the lower you go the more work will have to be done after they are installed, tee bracing and such that will be in the instructions to make them strong enough for what ever snow load you might require. and you have a better chance of walking around in them for flat ceiling.
I would go with vaulted on the lower roof and then you will need to go 6/12 outside and get 4/12 inside a little trickier to assemble but not impossible.
The upper roof I would build the new walls with full height pre cut studs knok the top plates off and add studs beside the old ones and bring them up to height if the old exterior is 2x4 just make the new studs and top plates 2x6 and later you could add the 2" where needed to bring the rest of the wall out to 2x6. I would raise the headers in the old walls too.
Vaulting in the upper roof only if it is one big room as usually they are flat and vault one room,say a master bedroom or bath. If you vault the whole thing then the interior walls have to be built later to meet the ceiling height.
On a 6 or 4 / 12 the tales close to 2ft usually. they don't want them to interfere with the windows, the higher the pitch the shorter the tales with an eight foot ceiling. With a nine foot ceiling you lower the windows to allow for longer tails. So yes you would be close to 26 ft give or take.

I really like that idea to raise the ceiling on the 2nd floor and keep a flat ceiling. There are 3 beds and a bath up there. If I'm going to mess with that existing wall( which is almost 44' long) I gotta ask one more question.

Down the road when money is there , could be years , I want an addition on that side of the house. A big living room 2 story's high possiably the length of that wall and out away from the wall maybe 25'. I want that wall in question to open up at that point in time. The bedroom walls would pull back about 4' into the existing building. That would leave me a 4' balcony overlooking the living room.
If I'm going to mess with the wall maybe I could build it with say 4 columns and a big beam across . Tie the existing wall Into that for now.what should I look into for what I would need for that?
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:12 AM  
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Reading it , thanks.
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:44 AM  
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For the addition, that is making it huge. I can only talk about what they might design for that. there would be a big girder to hold up the existing trusses witch will include special footings in the foundation and may need a third bairing point and a valley set to go on todays roof with a gable out the back. there is a limit to the height a truck can move so you will have trusses on top of trusses.
I would draw up that set of plans too and let them look at both and make suggestions on the best way to consider both jobs.
If you went with a hip style roof now, you would have a girder about 6 ft from the back wall and might make the addition easier as you would just remove the outer six ft and add more roof on top.
But all this is engineers work, they design it ,we just put them up. But it is a good time to talk about it.

Back to the basics, I want to know about the floor upstairs, now. Joists size exactly, span and on center, plywood thickness.

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Old 02-05-2014, 10:31 AM  
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Yea , that's way beyond my ability to even learn , at that point I would need an architect to draw it all up , and sub a lot of it out. Kinda why I din't mention it till now. Just figured if I was going to rebuild that back wall I might want to address it now. Guess my next stop sgould be an architect before the lumber yard . I have an idea what I want but no set dimensions , most likely not that long. In all reality it may never even happen.

The current 2nd floor ( the actual floor I'm assuming is what your asking) is 2x6 , 16"o.c. , covered with a 5&1/2 " tounge and groove board. A bunch of walls on the first floor are load bearing as the joists change directions here and there , varying their length . My plan is to add beams and open the first floor up a bit.

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Old 02-05-2014, 10:51 AM  
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Oops, that ain't gonna work! Your new floor will be a span of about 10,12 ft yes. 2x10 min joists. This job just got bigger. That sounds like some added the back half of the upper floor on existing ceiling joists. At the very least we have to spend some time talking about the floor. If you have a crawl space or basement try to figure out just what walls down stairs are actually bearing or have a beam under them.



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