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Old 02-05-2014, 03:43 PM  
buffalo
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Ouch , well I had to get medevil on my drawings. I'll have to get my cad guy to draw them up.

Basement throughout house. 2x6 joists throughout main house , 2x8 under inlaw. The main beam in the basement runs about 4-6" off center to the south of the first floor wall deviding the stairs/living room from the dining room .

I believe the second floor joists run north south in kitchen/ dining room. East west in living room / foyer.

I'm going to draft second drawings on what I want it to be.





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Old 02-05-2014, 04:05 PM  
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I want you to measure the joists again. 2x6 = 1.5x 5.5- , 2x8 = 1.5x 7.5- rough 2x6 = 2+x 6-. I'm a non believer but I have seen some strange things.
Is that the only bearing wall in the basement, I can't figure out what is holding the floor up upstairs. Is there a drop beam between the living room and the area beside the dinning?



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Old 02-05-2014, 05:49 PM  
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Ok I just noticed something weird. All the joists in the basement are 2x8 , 7 of them are 2x6 for some reason. The beam and sills in that area are taller making up the differance.can't really tell from this pic , but its over 65' with all the joists , 12' , running north south and resting on the beam.



I'm gonna pop some ceiling tiles tomarrow to be sure of all the joist patterns for the first floor ceiling. I'm pretty sure I already know. Every wall on my 1st floor plan is load bearing. I believe that is a beam between the kitchen and the unmarked room due south of it. Here's a pic of a joist in the dining room ceiling. It's deceiving by the pic angle , but its true measurement is 5&1/2" .



Pic looking from dining room into kitchen. You can see the beam running east west.

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Old 02-05-2014, 05:57 PM  
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It might not be correct , but all the joists are in the first floor ceiling already , and being used as a floor. The last 4' that's shaded on the second floor isn't used as the pitch of the roof is too low. It goes from 3' tall to 0' over 4 '. I can't see the new roof weighing much more , but that weight would be distributed through the exterior walls anyway right?

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Old 02-05-2014, 07:46 PM  
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2x8s are min. for floor joists and it is is pretty standard to have 2x6s for ceiling joists. The reasons why I think the back half upper was added later are.
If you were the builder of this house in the first place why would you not pitch the roof a little more to allow for 8 ft ceiling upstairs, Why would you dedicate space for the basement stairs when you are going to have waisted space under the upper stairs. If you used 2x8 joists down stairs why would you go against code to you 2x6s upstairs.

There are alot of other things I would be looking at if I was there, like wiring, are the wires at outlets downstairs the same vintage as the wires feeding outlets upstairs. I would look at the rafters in the unused area in the attic to see if there were caller ties that have since been removed.
My first thougt was really not a big deal just toss the upper floor walls and floor deck and add floor joists and build all new but then you have to deal with the stairs, that would require all re and re stringers landing and all.
It is time to get an engineer in to prove I am wrong and see if has ideas for saving the floor. I'm not trying to be mean but non of this would pass inspection and you wouldn't get a permit unless you can get an engineers report to go with the application.

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Old 02-06-2014, 06:02 AM  
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I hate the stairs where they are now. My plan was to move access to the second floor into the addition down the road. Well looks like things just got a bit tougher.

In residential framing the structurial engineer is the architect correct?

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Old 02-06-2014, 09:07 AM  
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not here, call a lumber yard for a requimendation.

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Old 02-06-2014, 10:09 AM  
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If you are thinking of moving stairs, and you will likely have to had floor joists anyway, save the money for the engineer and just do it. Call the permit dept. at the city and the lumber yard what they think of 2x6 joists, you most likely will get the same answer without spending the money.

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Old 02-07-2014, 01:02 PM  
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Well to my wife's dismay I started to rip open ceilings to see exactly what up there. Your not gonna believe this but the previous tile I took out was the only joist that was 16"O.C.. All the rest throughout the house are 12" O.C. The living room has double 2x6 in the long span and a tripple in one spot.

Does this help my situation by any chance? If its acceptable could I add double or triple joists in the gable framed area ?



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Old 02-07-2014, 04:32 PM  
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Have you gone to the city to see if permits were drawn for this or if it was original to the house. If so you may get away with it. If you did, you will never put tile in the bath up there. The walls on both sides of the living room have to be bairing or at least a double under them in the basement. The double and triple would be there to carry the load of the walls upstairs that don't seem to be in line. So, if you have a triple on top of a 2x4 wall, how are the joist attached to that. That might be a double with pressure blocks on one side, we would use hangers today but that might happen when the joists a just a little short.
Tell the wife the ceiling has to go anyway, that crap would not give you the time to get out of the upstairs in a fire.
If you find that you can use this as is, you said earlier that you were thinking of open walls down stairs. The time for that would be sooner rather than later. Now you would be able to hide most of a 2x10 double or beam in the floor.
I can turn your photo over to read it but I can't post it?



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