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Bridgewater · 05-29-2006, 01:08 AM

I thought I would bring this here cause I wanted see what Square Eye had to say.
I sided a house last December and it was a new const. job. Thing is all my Alum. trim is oil caning all around the house. We were pushed into that job and it was a big full two story house.
Well the roof was on But the sheet rock was not there and was instaled after my siding and trim was done.
I toled my bosses the only thing I think it could be, ant my work! I said this building has did some settling.
There has been at least ten tons of sheet rock installed after I did the siding and trim, and the rakes and fascia were proubley not seasoned in to the weather yet, and the extra whight that was layed in the house made it do some moving and oil can my trim. We took pitchers when I was dune and need to dig them up.

I been around a bit and beleave this one aint on me.

Square Eye · 05-29-2006, 08:04 AM

Ha-ha, yeah I respond to bunches of stuff. Like a cat, ready to pounce on the unsuspecting and help them with their home improvements and repairs.

90% of the time when I get oil canning with aluminum trim, it's temperature related. The expansion rate of that thin aluminum in the sunlight is much greater than the wood behind it.

Have you ever tried using a break buddy? It uses two rubber tires called dies to form a reinforcing rib down the length of your trim. It doesn't eliminate oil canning, but it breaks it up and makes it less obvious. It makes a bigger rib than you see on store bought fascia.

I worked for a company that wanted the nails driven upwards through the bottom. You can't get many nails in this way. There were many warranty calls for trim that had blown off. I could still see some oil can wrinkles when it was nailed from the bottom. It just followed the bend and twist of the lumber, maybe worse than face nailing.

All of that said, what works best for me is, a slot cutting punch used along the top edge. Push the drip edge up and nail the top through the slots loosely. Then a nail every 2ft up through the bottom. The slots will show with narrow drip edge, so it may not work on all jobs.

You sided this house in December, betcha' it's the temperature causing expansion. Oil canning wrinkles are a fact of life. It happens to the best siding guys. If the customer forces you to replace the trim, lay it in the sun for a moment before you install it. Use less nails (as high as you can get them and then down on the bottom). If the house has gutters, at least you won't have to replace that trim!

Sorry Bob, I know this doesn't help you much, but settling usually doesn't affect the rake boards on the gable ends.

Bridgewater · 05-29-2006, 10:38 AM

Sgare Eye I know every trick you talked about with installing and then some. This one the, gables are canning on me and it is the house.
I saw alot of flaws in this house with the framing and rafters (no trusses) all cut in like junk.
I didnt think much about it at the time but did realize there may be a proulbem later and made a hem bend on every pieace that tucked under the drip for ridgidity. And yes I swere by nailing under into the fascia and rakes and use as few face nails tight to the drip edge as I can with my stinger.
This one I truely beleave had meny flaws in the framing. I ream out my trim with the nails but eaven a pre drill 1/8" and float would not have helped this. one

Square Eye · 05-29-2006, 02:21 PM

If the fly rafter is warped or bowed, there's nothing you can do. Any of the tricks I mentioned will work on straight boards, but none will work on dog-legged crooked sss crap. "Just throw it in there, the trim guy will take care of it" does not always work. This must be one of those times. A hem bend on the edge adds a lot of strength. Hmmmm.

This time, I got nothing.

InspectorD, you got anything?

**asbestos** · 05-29-2006, 05:57 PM

What is oil canning? is this like prarrie doggin, post holing, or footballing????????

Square Eye · 05-29-2006, 06:55 PM

Used to be,, motor oil came in a can. Ya' had to shove this spout into the top of the can and the oil was thick enough to pull the can in like dents or wrinkles because the spout wouldn't let air back in the can. Eventually, the vacuum would be great enough to make that gloop gloop sound. Then the can would pop back out to near it's original shape.

Oil canning sometimes settles back to flat, so, there you go.

**inspectorD** · 05-29-2006, 07:32 PM

I got nothin...What we would do with problem oilcan trim is try to make almost like a starter strip piece for vinyl, or like you do on standing seam interlock roofs. You nail your piece of starter(for lack of term)then interlock it loose..so it can move,this will work but you end up with more work than you wanted.As far as the framing..I really never thought of all the wieght at the fascias and rakes....Mabey this is it but I can't say without pictures.
Is it doing it everywhere or only certain spots?