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ozarkdan 04-24-2013 04:35 PM

Weed Trimmer, Runs in START, dies in RUN
I have a Poulan PPB 150E weed trimmer that wouldn't start this season unless I shot fuel into the carb past the butterfly. Then it would only run for a few seconds. I replaced the fuel lines, filter, and carb. Now it starts and runs in the START position, but dies when I switch to RUN. Running in the START position, the RPM's tend to go up and down and white smoke will puff from the exhaust at times.

Any suggestions?
Could I have accidentally switched the lines to the carb?


nealtw 04-24-2013 07:03 PM

Start position closes the chock so you get less air, so likely you have an air leak somewhere around the carb. Air leaking in where it shouldn't. Just a guess.

Blue Jay 04-24-2013 08:14 PM

Ditto on the air leak, don't run it too long in this mode (don't ask me how I know) or you can ruin the engine...

elbo 04-27-2013 01:09 PM

the engine is running way lean. It could be an air leak or a misadjusted carb. Check all the bolts on the carb including the attachment bolts for tightness. then squirt some gas around the parting surfaces and see if there is any change in the rpm, if there is, you've located the source of a air leak. It could be a torn gasket or "o" ring
If there is no change in the rpm, then richen up the mixture until it runs without the choke being on. Once you get it running without the choke adjust the idle rpm and mixture until it runs evenly

Daddytron 05-02-2013 05:00 PM

if you replaced the carburetor, odds are it's not adjusted correctly. if it has 2 adjustment screws (marked H and L) gently turn them in all the way and then out 1 1/2 turns each. warm the engine up for about a minute before going to full throttle, then adjust the "H" screw until it runs good. if it still runs poorly, then I would check for an air-leak. Usually an air leak will cause the engine to run way too fast. A leak in the bottom end will cause the engine to stall at idle.

ozarkdan 05-03-2013 10:35 AM

Thanks very much for the feedback and ideas. Here's what I've done: 1. I applied high temp silicone grease around the gasket/O'ring and saw no difference in starting or running. This is a trick I learned working on cars. It's temp. but should've showed if there was a leak. 2. I held the choke in certain positions besides Full ON or OFF and found the engine would idle and run. This seems to indicate mixtures are not correctly set. Unfortunately, I do not have the right type of tool to adjust the carb screws, they're serrated.


Thank you all very much.

nealtw 05-03-2013 10:53 AM

If the screws look like you need a 6 sided star, it's a torx scew screwdiver you need.

Daddytron 05-04-2013 10:47 AM

no... Poulan used a splined screw for a while... more like a 4mm double square screw. I can't think if there's an alternative that a homeowner might have... Poulan was bought by "Electrolux Home Products" a while back. They also own "Husqvarna" if your local Husqvarna dealer is friendly enough They may loan you the right screwdriver

ozarkdan 05-05-2013 11:51 AM

Kind of hard to describe exactly, but the heads of the adjustment screws had what looked like about 15-20 straight splines. I could put a piece of rubber tubing on them but they were too stiff to turn with the tubing.

elbo 05-05-2013 12:37 PM

If I understand what you write, the splines are only to give you a grip on the adjustment screws. I would squirt some wd-40 around the screws and try to turn them with a pair of pliers, left then right a little at a time until they turn easily. I think they are just stuck or possibly over tightened. Be careful that the screw isn't bottomed out, so first turn it counter-clockwise, also, watch out for a plastic stop that will only allow you to make a small adjustment. these stops are removable, if you need to remove it See if you can post a photo of the adjustment

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