Outbacker

just removed an old ledger from the house to get ready to install a new ledger. The old one was improperly installed (2 lag bolts and about 16 rusted nails, the ledger was 12 feet long). So I have my new ledger of 14 feet long, and will be attaching it to the stucco wall. I will describe my plan and please add to it or inject corrections. I am going to drill through the ledger,stucco and wall into the crawl space. I am going to use 1/2 inch carriage bolts with washers/nuts to attach the ledger to the wall. I am putting a sheet of 8 inch wide flashing between the ledger and the wall. There will be a strip of flashing attached to the top of the ledger to prevent water from going between the sheet of flashing and the ledger. Exterior caulking will be used in drilled holes and between the flashing (s) and the ledger.
My question is should I create a gap between the flashing and the ledger using thick washers to allow air flow in this gap to prevent moisture build up? Is this necessary. Any precautions for the stucco? Any other thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

inspectorD

Yes you can build the deck off the wall about a 1/2 inch or so.
The web site www.decks.com has a good picture of what to make your flashing look like.
The only thing they leave ouy on these sites is that you need to use COPPER flashing now.If you are using pressure treated lumber you CAN NOT use ALUMINUMN or even coated /painted steel or aluminumn.
The new lumber reacts with these lighter gaged metals so to speak.(Don't want to get into electrolosis)
Copper or stainles steel(expensive and hard to do) are the only acceptable methods I know of.

Also keep the siding off the top deck boards so the siding can breath.You should be One inch off the top with a weep screed at the bottom of the stucco.
This is the same steel piece at the bottom of your siding at the ground.Your stucco should not go into the ground.

Hope this helps..

Seen way to many ledger failures.
InspectorD

__________________
Just My
Made in the

inspectorD

I also forgot to mention ..
When you go to by connectors or bolts and washers I recommend stainless steel, at least for the bolts and washers. You will never have a problem with deterioration.

Worth every $
InspectorD

__________________
Just My
Made in the

Square Eye

Hey InspectorD, Have you seen the plastic insulators that the block companies are selling? They're basically a washer molded to a tube 1 5/8" long.Their intended use is for the green plate anchor bolts on top of the foundation. Would they work in this case? It's very hard to find Stainless steel bolts around here.

__________________
[URL="http://www.houserepairtalk.com/announcement.php?f=39&a=6"][size=3]The Ten Commandments of House Repair Talk[/size][/URL]



[URL="http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=16&groupid=289528&ck="]Square Eye's home page[/URL]

inspectorD

We would buy a length of condensate type tubing and cut them to length to cover the bolts. Then we put a piece of Ice and water over the plate to put our washers on. The theory is separation any way possible.

Sometimes we ran the local stores out of stainless.
InspectorD

__________________
Just My
Made in the

james b

as inspector d stated any type of seperation from the bolt and washer from being in direct contact with the p. t. wood is what you want to accomplish.

Outbacker

Thanks for the replies, but after careful consideration, I have decided to build a stand alone deck. It is 1 inch from the house, and so far it looks great. The framing is finished for the upper deck, and tomorrow I will frame the lower deck, and next weekend will be alloted for the deck boards to be attached.. It is solid and well supported. Thanks again, and the questions will keep coming.