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-   -   Basement insulating help needed. (http://www.houserepairtalk.com/f45/basement-insulating-help-needed-629/)

Model Builder 04-10-2006 08:21 AM

Basement insulating help needed.
 
Hi everyone I joined to maybe get some help on my basement project. I have a room under a carport that we weren't using due to the very cold nature of this room. The room size is 24'L x 13'W x 7'7"H. I want to use this room for a workshop to build my model boats. I have painted/sealed the walls for moisture, then bought some 2 inch thick owens corning pink rigid foam insulation. I have it all cut to height and in place.
Now from here I don't know exactly how to proceed. I thought I would cut out places for 2x4's to fit face flush with the foam, then screw them to the block wall. But if I do that I would only be leaving 1/4 of an inch of foam under the 2x4 and I am sure this thin part would break off and leave my insulation loose. I would also have to buy 2 3/4 inch concrete screws to put the 2x4's in place.
So now I am thinking of buying 1x3 furring strips and maybe glueing it to the block wall with an adhesive, then placing the foam in front of that and nailing panelling to the strips.
That would give me a bit of air space between the wall and the foam. It would also leave the insulation solid top to bottom.
I don't know for sure if an adhesive like Liquid nails would do the job and allow me to nail up panneling to the strips through the foam?

I need help to figure out what to do. I sure don't want to do this more than once. And I want to do it right the frist time out if I can. So please help me if you can.

Model Builder 04-11-2006 04:40 AM

Is there no one that can can offer me advice on this project? With all the knowledgeable people on this forum?

Square Eye 04-11-2006 05:54 AM

I've only dealt with this situation a couple of times. Both times, I used steel Z channels and whatever foam I could find to fit in it. Then drywall over that. I taped over the channels and onto the foam on both sides with foil duct tape.

Paneling? Maybe you could use the T-111 type of paneling. It comes 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick. It costs a litle more but you can mount shelves directly to it.

I used a table saw to cut the foam to width. Good clean straight cuts.

inspectorD 04-11-2006 05:58 AM

I missed this post????
 
What you propose is the right direction.
The issue you may have with the glueing the firring strips to the wall is that they may not stick.I know you painted but that is not the cure all as I have posted before in the paint section.
Use some 5/4 decking(Splits less), shoot it to the walls with adhesive and nails or screws,then attach your foam with adhesive, then the paneling with adheasive and nails.
Should be trouble free. Remember to keep the paneling off the floor about an inch so it does not wick up moisture.
You wanted the best way....you got it!!!!

Post your progress.
Ventilate....ventilate...ventilate....When gluing of course....

Inspectord

Model Builder 04-11-2006 06:08 AM

I was planning on useing T1-11 panelling. I wanted the lighter color rather than dark paneling. I used a jig saw and a guide board to cut the foam. I never thought about a Z channel. I go to lowes and see what they have. Thanks for your input.






Quote:

Originally Posted by Square Eye
I've only dealt with this situation a couple of times. Both times, I used steel Z channels and whatever foam I could find to fit in it. Then drywall over that. I taped over the channels and onto the foam on both sides with foil duct tape.

Paneling? Maybe you could use the T-111 type of paneling. It comes 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick. It costs a litle more but you can mount shelves directly to it.

I used a table saw to cut the foam to width. Good clean straight cuts.


Model Builder 04-11-2006 06:15 AM

This is another good approach. After I posted I got to thinking how thin the 1x3 furring was. What kind of adhesive would I use to attach the foam, liquid nails? What if I used the z channel mentioned in the previous post at the floor level of the wall to retain the foam and T1-11? Or a U channel? Well off to lowes to check it out. Thanks for your help will post later on how I am doing.






Quote:

Originally Posted by inspectorD
What you propose is the right direction.
The issue you may have with the glueing the firring strips to the wall is that they may not stick.I know you painted but that is not the cure all as I have posted before in the paint section.
Use some 5/4 decking(Splits less), shoot it to the walls with adhesive and nails or screws,then attach your foam with adhesive, then the paneling with adheasive and nails.
Should be trouble free. Remember to keep the paneling off the floor about an inch so it does not wick up moisture.
You wanted the best way....you got it!!!!

Post your progress.
Ventilate....ventilate...ventilate....When gluing of course....

Inspectord


MinConst 04-11-2006 06:32 PM

Why not just build a 2x4 wall floor to rafters. Insulate normally and be done with it. Shooting 3 shots into your block per sud can put alot of holes in good block.

Model Builder 04-11-2006 07:10 PM

Expense was the first consideration. It was much cheaper to buy the rigid foam than to frame up a 13'x24'x7'7" room. I am not going to run this wood as vertical studs but horizontally across the walls. I can space out the screws better that way. All I need are 3 runs of boards top, middle, and bottom, place the foam on those boards, then nail the t1-11 securely. Or am I off base here in my thinking? This is my first attempt to do work like this I was estimating a total of 38 boards to complete the room.




Quote:

Originally Posted by MinConst
Why not just build a 2x4 wall floor to rafters. Insulate normally and be done with it. Shooting 3 shots into your block per sud can put alot of holes in good block.


asbestos 04-12-2006 02:49 AM

Make sure that the glue you use is rated for the EP (styrofoam) or the foil faced stuff. Also make sure that the insulation has a continous cover of drywall per your local code. that stuff can and will burn. check to see if t-111 is acceptable. You may need to sheetrock it.

inspectorD 04-12-2006 05:44 AM

Codes ....
 
T-1-11 is fine to cover the insulation board.As stated you need to follow manufacturers instructions on rigid board glues on concrete and studs.
The idea you are useing without getting into to much science is a good one.
The less wood and sheetrock (organic materials )in a basement the better.
Also staying away from fiberglass insulation is also a good idea in basements that get mold.
You are in the right direction with steel channels and foam....
Keep on buildin....

InspectorD;)


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