johnnymnemonic

isola96: the support legs are adjustable; what do you mean by the floor being another thread?
nealtw: when you say "wood against brick", are you referring to the blocking mounted against the steel studs? is that bad?

joecaption

From the pictures it looks like a patch work quilt for a sub floor. It should have all been removed so a new Advantec subfloor could have been installed so you would have one flat soild surface to work off of and there would be no flexing or squecks under the new flooring.
The whole wall facing the outside wall should have been insulated and covered with tile board or sheetrock up to the tub lip to stop air flow getting to the back side of the tub, From there up to the ceiling needs to be vaper barrier of 6 mil. plastic, then tile board up to the point to be tiled.
How are you suppost to install insulation correctly with the tub in the way?
If the back side of that tub is not an outside wall I still would have insulated to help deaden the sound of someone taking a shower.

nealtw

Are you sure there has been a permit issued for this job?

jerry001

ohoo!
Did the contractor concern with you firstly when installed the tub. Now, you concern with your contractor. If you don't do this at a time, it may be give you huge problem.

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nealtw

There should be a space between brick or concrete and wood, If wood touches the brick, it need plastic between.

johnnymnemonic

Ok. We called the manufacture. They told that the bathtub is installed correct. They worried about the cut in the tub. Our contractor gave as an written warranty for the cut. We are ok.

joecaption

Did you send the manf. a picture of what he had done, or just talk to them on the phone?
Measure the distance of the depth into the tub that cut was made.
How does he plan on getting tile board to set againt that side of the wall with the pipe still in the way?
My guess is he's planning to shim out that side so it will lay flat, which will throw off the exposure of the tile on the front left side.
It also will not give a good seal at the bottom of the tile to tub area and may leak around that cut. I'd seal that area with siliccone to form a dam so water "should not" get in before the board goes up. I'd also leave off the sheetrock on the back side of the wall for a while to see if it leaks.

nealtw

Johnny:

With your first couple posts, I was thinking you were just a picky customer but now I think you have every reason to be concerned.
Where did you find this contractor?
Who found the engineer?
Do you have a permit in the window or on the door?
If you talked to other contractors before letting this job, have one of them come and look over the whole job, pay him for his time.

johnnymnemonic

Joecaption: Yes, we sent the manufacturer pictures and they said it should be fine.

Saw a bit of the status today. They put what looks like toothpaste (probably silicone) onto the area.

Nealtw: We found this contractor after interviewing a lot of them. It was through references. He's doing work to a house in the area and he looked good to us.

The engineer was referred to us by our condo managing company. We just went with him.

In hindsight, I should probably have chosen the one contractor who said he won't do anything unless he gets plans from an architect. No hassle, everything is clear from the get go, down to the materials and labor.

Yes, we have permits, everything was done officially.

I talked to other contractors, but are there inspectors? Or contractors are the best inspectors?

joecaption

The architect did not have X ray vision. As soon as I opened up those walls and saw the sewer pipes and the size of the tub I would have been on the phone with him and worked that out until that was solved and there was room for the tub to fit.
All the rough plumbing is done, has anyone called for a rough plumbing inspection?