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Old 01-18-2011, 07:36 AM  
joecaption
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A few rules of thumb.
Never have a shed sitting to close to the ground. If it's to close you get whats called splash back when it rains and the sides will rot out.
Windows add to the cost, slow down building it, allow someone to look inside that may be thinking about breaking in, makes an easy way to break in, takes up valubale wall space for hanging things.
Never build it to small. By the time you add a work bench and some shelves there will little room for anything else.
Use Advantec T&G sub flooring not pressure treated. Advantec has a 50 year warrenty, does not need ACQ approved fastners, and will not delaminate.
Make sure the roof has an over hang. If not the waters going to be running down the sides and rot it out.
I just hate T-11 plywood but that seems to be what a lot of people build them with. I seal the bottom of the T-111 with two coats or West System, shellic, or oil based primer. (what ever I seem to have left over from a job)
I only use soild colored stain not paint on the face of it. Stain faids, it does not peel like paint will. And coat it with two coats on the outside and at least one coat before installing the panels on the back side at least 12" up from the bottom. That seals it so the panels do not rot out in a few years.
Make sure to use drip cap on the outside edges of the roof sheathing so the water can not get to the end grains.
Always use three hindges and use 3" screws on the doors, there heavy and will sag with just two.
I've never seen a store bought shed door that has not rotted out where the cross bucks are on the door. Far better to use 2 X 4 bracing and cross buck on the inside of the door not the outside. If you still want that cross buck look on the outside use vinyl lumber with a piece of vinyl cap molding with silicone caulking behind them on any pieces that sit horizontal so the water runs off of the cross pieces, not 1 X 4 pine.
Not sure where that other poster came up with the idea of needing planner. I've built 100's of buildings and never used one yet for 2 X 4's. It's not a Swiss watch your building.



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Old 01-18-2011, 11:32 AM  
mudmixer
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Much depends on the budget, where it will be located and what you want it to look like.

My son built a 10x12 shed to not go over the local code limits and do things right at his pace and not have to bother with inspections. The great thing he did is to make it 10' high instead of the usual 8'. That dramatically increased the usable storage and use, because things could be stored on the wall and not interfere with the mobile "toys".

He tucked it in a corner behind the attached garage and far enough from the house, so it was not the type that is out in the "back forty" since he wanted to keep it close and not ruin the usable space for the kids.

He matched the roof pitch (standard shed trusses from a big box) to the house and got the same cheap vinyl siding, but it looks like it was intended to be there and built with the house, but it was a long term DIY job. The biggest challenge was to build a concrete ramp to the wide door without screwing things up (drainage, etc.).

As long as you take your time and know what you want to do at your own speed.

Dick

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Old 01-20-2011, 04:35 AM  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FirTrader View Post
No offense sonof, but why on earth would you plane a 2x4 even if they are marginally different from one another? We're talking about a shed here, not a piano.

I build big sheds like tiny houses - build a floor out of 2x6 or 2x8, and sheet it with 3/4 " treated ply, and then build walls and stand them, with the sheeting hanging below the wall (to cover the floor seem) and then some rafters and presto. Takes about 2 days if you've got everything you need on site. Sheds btw don't qualify for any kind of code, so far as I know, being "buildings of low human occupancy".
Agree with you on this one. I think it is a very good advise.
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