houblon

I was wrong - R19 is only 6in. How deep is the bay? If the depth is 10in, then it would take R30 batts to fill all without compressing. I would like to know if there is a reason he is using R19 and sticking it to the top. It looks like it will sag and drop down.

joecaption

It also looks like some of the bays are far less then the width to the insulation and it's just jammed into place instead of ripping it to width.
Is that CDX plywood going to be used as a sub floor?
CDX would be fine for a wall or roof sheathing but not as good for a sub floor.
It's got open knots and voids in the core will cause soft spots in the underlayment, cracks in the tile or grout if you go with tile.
It would have been far better to use T & G underlayment rated plywood or better and cheaper Advantec subflooring. Advantec will hold up to moisture, will not delaminate, more stable then plywood, no voids.

johnnymnemonic

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm beginning to get worried about the subfloor too, just about now. But to stick with the topic, I don't know how deep the space is, but it's definitely space between my subfloor (the plywood that you see) and the neighbor's ceiling. The insulation that was put there is held into place with metal threads that are put in here and there. Are you saying it's standard to fill the whole space with insulation?

As far as the subfloor, I'll open a new thread.

joecaption

If there's a cono below you then the inslation is more for sound control then anything else. The heat from the condo below you is going to be helping you heat yours, since heat rises. But if the insulation is compressed it will do nothing to deaden the sound transfure or keep heat in or out.
R19 is fine but I would have used staples instead of insulation hangers and had the vaper barrier facing up not down.