Shawner

Finally got a chance to start pulling stuff apart this weekend. Found vapor barrier under the drywall (with the opposite side of the wall being the living area/family room). If vapor barrier is needed, isn't it supposed to be on the warm side?

Was also thinking that lack of air movement is probably contributing to the smell. If I make the storage room into a part of the living area (vapor barrier on any walls separating the storage room from the crawl space), pipe a heat register in and cut a vent into the bottom of the door.... would that work?

nealtw

Good luck on the project and yes that should work with air movement and yes the barrier should have been on the warm side.

Shawner

Poured the floor yesterday and pulled down the old drywall and foam on the concrete.

The picture below is the wall that used to have the white foam on it. It's an outside wall.

The sill plate overhangs the concrete by about 1.5". Could I:
- glue 1.5" rigid foam to the concrete, tape joints, acoustic sealant all around
- extend vapor barrier from 2x6 wall above down and taped to rigid foam
- insulated 2x4 wall directly in front of it (with no vapor barrier)
- drywall



The other side of this pictured wall below is the garage (un-heated)
Edge of sill plate is flush with the concrete wall. Wall is 2x4. Could I:
- glue 1.5" rigid to the concrete, tape joints, acoustic sealant all around
- strap the 2x4 walls with 2x2's
- replace the 2x4 insulation with 2x6 insulation
- vapor barrier on warm side of wood wall, down and taped to rigid foam
- insulated 2x4 wall directly in front of it (with no vapor barrier)
- drywall

Sound right?

nealtw

What we normally would do is build a 2x4 wall in front of the wall which would leave an inch away from the concrete and insulate that a vapour barrier behind the drywall. I think your plan will work fine.