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Old 10-19-2012, 03:03 PM  
drewdin
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Default Do I need to put strapping on my ceiling?

I have a sunroom in my house ripped down to the studs, I was told by my electrician that he wanted strapping on the ceiling so he could center the recessed lights but I wanted to know if this is necessary?

Is it fine to install drywall directly onto the ceiling joists? Is it fine just to put a piece of wood to center the lights?

Thoughts? Thanks





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Old 10-19-2012, 03:37 PM  
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Hopefully you have a plan for venting the ceiling and the houes roof. If you are planning on pot lights, your guy will want proper fixtures for that and you rafters may not be deep enough for insulation above them. Yes you can just block between for a regular box.



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Old 10-19-2012, 04:24 PM  
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Why can't he use this?
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=recessed+light+centering&um=1&hl=en&safe= off&client=safari&sa=N&rls=en&biw=1093&bih=757&tbm =isch&tbnid=t2AbCTZZjUYWdM:&imgrefurl=http://www.residentiallighting.com/broad-recessed-selection&docid=dc8sTJRDUICcQM&itg=1&imgurl=http://www.residentiallighting.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/article_max/royalpacific.jpg&w=250&h=250&ei=OtKBUPrDKpOy0AHb4I DIDQ&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=136&vpy=143&dur=610&hovh=2 00&hovw=200&tx=99&ty=115&sig=102793154617015424895 &page=1&tbnh=151&tbnw=151&start=0&ndsp=20&ved=1t:4 29,r:10,s:0,i:101

Work that you do saves him money and helps if he underbid the job to get the work.

I had a cabinet installer pretend he didn't know what "counterbore" meant so he could send me off to Home Depot to find cabinet knobs compatible with the door thickness of the cabinets he was installing.
Then he objected that it would be tricky to drill the hole just the right depth and I said "Yes. Due diligence is required."

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Old 10-20-2012, 01:19 AM  
AndyGump
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nealtw View Post
Hopefully you have a plan for venting the ceiling and the houes roof. If you are planning on pot lights, your guy will want proper fixtures for that and you rafters may not be deep enough for insulation above them. Yes you can just block between for a regular box.
He could go with a non-vented attic assembly, they are code approved.

Andy.
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:33 PM  
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It was recommended that I use strapping to prevent deflection and give some more space for the lighting fixtures as I only have a 2x6 ceiling rafter.

With that being said, I had the inspector in today and I'm going to go with an R23 and then 1" rigid foam with strapping under that. I don't want to lose heat/cool but I cant get an R38 either.

I guess this pleases the inspector and electrician but not my pocket.

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Old 10-22-2012, 01:43 PM  
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What kind of light fixtures?

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Old 10-23-2012, 09:29 AM  
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recessed lighting, 4" bulbs. There will be 6 total.

what are your thoughts on spray foam to maximize R value? Is it worth the money, something about foam making it final scares me.

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Old 10-23-2012, 10:18 AM  
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The recessed lights explain what the electrition was looking for. Spray foam may be the answer if you have accounted for the lost ventulation to the other roof.

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Old 10-23-2012, 10:30 AM  
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With spray foam you also get a vapor barrier, which you need. And by filling entire rafter bay, including strapping or furring, you don't have to worry about venting. Foam doesn't make it more "final" than any other option. Its your best bet in this situation.

Foam walls too, use minimally expanding around windows and doors. Mite wanta add horizontal blocking a few inches below windows. Mask off windows and gaps around windows, spray main foam, which can expand enough to bend window frames, then fill gaps and spaces with minimal foam.

What is panel below window? If frame dimensions are important keep high expansion away from sides there too.

Think about adding a few more outlets while electrician is there. Easier to do now than later. They're never in right place. You can never have too many outlets as long as you don't overload circuits.
.
Any insulation may interfere with light cans. And light cans can interfere with vapor barriers. Be sure to install insulated, sealed cans that can be in contact with insulation. Install outer can, and mask off opening B4 spray.

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Old 10-24-2012, 02:18 PM  
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What would the horizontal blocking under the windows do?

The box under the window is where the previous owner has a AC unit installed. I sealed the hole and fixed the siding on the out side.

Spray foam is ending up being about $5 a square foot, i have about 300 square feet so it will cost about $1500 to insulate the ceiling. If I use R23 Roxul and 1" foam board I can get roughly the same R Value for $500. Would the foam board count a a vapor barrier or should I cover the foam board with vapor barrier? Thanks



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