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Old 04-05-2011, 05:24 PM  
4Clover
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Default Garage Remodel

Hi, I'm 19yrs old and pretty much know nothing about anything I need to do to fix this garage up. It's my parent's house and since my dad is really lazy and I'm really annoyed at how bad it looks I decided to do the work. The questions will be asked in order of the pictures below.

1. How should i go about fixing this hole
2-3. What should I do with the boarder around this door, it looks like its been sitting like that for so long the wood has become uneven and/or eaten away.
4. I'd like to re-concrete the garage and fill in the holes and overall bring a new "shine" to the floor. Is there a specific concrete I should use for "patching" and "reviving?" I'd also like to epoxy it, recommendations appreciated.
5. As you can see the foundation or whatever these cinder block looking things are do not line up with the wall. I was wondering if you guys thought a border of consistent depth made out of wood covering up that cinder block would look pretty good.

Also, for patching dents in the wall before I paint over it, what would you recommend.

Thanks for the help. Sadly I don't know jack so it's a learn as I go experience. At least when I own a house I won't let it become like this.



imgp1668.jpg   imgp1670.jpg   imgp1671.jpg   imgp1674.jpg   imgp1675.jpg  

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Old 04-05-2011, 09:52 PM  
nealtw
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Holes in drywall ; Re-cut it so it has straight sides add peices of wood half behind old drywall with drywall screws, You can then add your patch and fill the cracks with tape and filler.
The door just needs new trim and covering the block would look better but put plastic between wood and concrete. Others will tell you about skim coats and primers for the floor.



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Old 04-06-2011, 07:11 AM  
joecaption
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That sheetrock is so bad I'd remove it and start over, or go over it with 1/4 sheetrock. It's going to take two people to install sheetrock. All butt joints must fall in the middle of a stud, It's install horizontal, and always pushed up againt the ceiling first not at the bottom.
The doors and any windows need to have low expanding spray foam (it will say for Windows and doors right on the can) sprayed in around the gaps on the outside of the jams before trimming.
Not sure what that gray thing is above the door?
You need 2-1/4" casing to trim out the door and windows. (let us know if there's any windows because that a whole differant thing that would need to be explained to you) Lows and Home depot both sell precut casing to trim out a door but they always still need some cutting. The best way is with a compound mitre saw but for that small a job a hand mitre box will work.
The casing should be cut just short of making contact with the concrete floor so it does not wick up moisture and rot. There need to be what's called an exposure when installing it. That means the casing is set just back from the outside sedges of the jams, I use 3/16 exposure so there still enough wood to nail it to the jams. At the bottom of that wall where the block sticks out vinyl would be best but very expencive. A simple way would be to use wide window stool for the top and a 1 X 6 on the face. But you have to make sure the wood does not contact the floor.
In order to do these jobs it would be best if you had the propper tools to do it and then you would have then to use later on your own house.
I'd suggest buying an air compresser nail gun combo.
12" compound mitre saw.
Ryobi Impact scew gun, Ryobi power tool combo set.
4", 6" 12" stainless steel dry wall knives.
Utility knife with extra blades.
Dry wall square
Dry wall sanding pole and pad
A pack of med grit sanding cloth
5 gal. of dry wall mud.
Large roll or drywall tape.
And that's just for starters.

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Old 04-06-2011, 10:10 AM  
4Clover
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Wow, Impressive amount of information. Thanks for the info. As for that gray thing, the picture is actually side ways so that's a board framing the wall that is used to put hooks into to hang various things. I need to replace those cause I don't think they were attached securely and the weight ended up warping and cracking the boards.

As for mitre saws is a 10" fine because I do have both a 12" which is my dads and a 10" which is mine. Just the 10" is nice and light weight for easy migration from basement to garage when needed. lol

And buy redo the sheetrock, do you mean the entire garage?

This house was a spec house, the more I clean out my parents junk and inspect it, this house truly lives up to the spec house design. Lazy and poorly built. >.>

Later today I'll take a picture of the garage door and see what you guys recommend for that, If i can make it look half way decent or just completely buying a new door.

Sadly my parents need to understand. If they don't spend the money now. They will have to pay out the butt for professionals to do it. Instead of their inexpensive son. ^.^

Also don't forget recommendations for the floor.

Thanks for your help incredible information, much appreciated.

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Old 04-07-2011, 12:03 AM  
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Post your floor questions in Bricks and concrete, lots of knowledge there

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Old 04-07-2011, 03:55 AM  
joecaption
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A 10" is fine for light trim work.
That floor is a mess, not sure what they were smoking when they did that one. It needs a whole new over lay but a pro would be needed for that one.
Thin concrete will crack, new concrete does not like to stick to old so it needs to be done by someone that knows what there doing.



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