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Old 04-06-2013, 04:15 PM  
greenlady0
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Default Gutting 5x6 jack&jill ensuite bath

Any thoughts on using Schluter system for walls floor and 3'x32"shower stall vs traditional methods? Everything including ceiling,walls and floor to be removed.We are raising the ceiling ht. in shower and lowering curb. Toilet has sunk yhe corner of floor and is seeping moisture to the underlayment. home was built in the early 50's, shower floor and several feet of wall were worked on in 80's. We purchased home in 90's and fixed the messy shower floor getter pitch etc. Now we want to start fresh no more pink bath for hubby. We've noticed cracks from ground movement and that is why we are considering Schluter system any ideas? Thanks.



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Old 04-07-2013, 10:03 PM  
nealtw
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A toilet that leaks water around the bottom will also allow sewer gas to enter the house, so good plan to get it fixed. Schuter is a good idea if you don't mind spending the money.



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Old 04-08-2013, 10:25 AM  
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yes plumber is going to redo stack above and iron pipe below...yeah Why so much more for Schluter? saw video for floor that took plywood thinset schluter mat more thinset then tile...the only extra I saw were the pieces that went onto the floor edge and up the wall an inch or so??

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Old 04-08-2013, 03:47 PM  
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It is the way to go, just alot of people look at the price and look for plan B. If you use it for the shower floor you have to buy the fitting for the drain too. I think it's worth the money.

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Old 04-09-2013, 10:23 AM  
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Thanks Neal, been through enough home reno to know money spent on a good infrastrucure is key and always worth it even if you don't see it. Funny so far with only 2 estimates in the schluter guy is $800 less than the traditional method guy...wish I had more than 2 responses though...

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Old 04-09-2013, 08:42 PM  
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I have never used schulter system. I hand placed concrete base for shower and used a schulter drain. I used 1/2" concrete board on the walls of the shower and 1/4" concrete board on the floor. Then coated the shower floor, curb and walls with Red Guard product to prevent moisture movement into the wall through the tile. You could also coat floor concrete board with Red Guard to protect subfloor from moisture. Are you on a slab as you mention "cracks from ground movement"? Or are the cracks in floor set on subfloor. Red Guard is recommended for tiling over concrete to seal cracks. I have read Schulter is also recommended to allow movement under tile while preventing cracks. I have no personal experience in that application.

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Old 04-10-2013, 07:19 PM  
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We are just finishing a new shower remodel. We are on slab but had to pour new sections we jack hammered out because I re-oriented the shower stall and drain. The walls are floated traditionally, not cement board. However we did Red Guard the float before applying tile to walls and ceiling.

If speed is the need . . . The Kerdi pan seems like a good call because you get a perfect shape immediately ... no sloping of a dry mix floor. At $500 for the entire setup, it is competitive with prices I have seen for dry mix jobs.

Have fun with your project!

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Old 04-11-2013, 12:01 PM  
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We are on a sub basement higher than a frawl space at 5' but not high enough to be a real basement. The settling cracks are at the corners of door frames and across the ceiling but I do see expansion and contraction in the homes flooring as well.. I thought $500 was reasonable for schluter system if what I saw at Home D was everything we would need for the job.Not familiar with red guard by name but will look it up. Thanks for the input.

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Old 04-11-2013, 02:53 PM  
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Redgard is a paint on sealer, Home Depot about $80 a gallon. Great if you using concrete backer board and one gallon would do your bathroom

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Old 04-12-2013, 10:13 AM  
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Thanks for red guard info also I can spell meant to say crawl space



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