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08-23-2011, 07:25 AM
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: PLEASANT HILL, Missouri
Posts: 5
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thanks
Thank you for all the replies and suggestions.
I need to check out what the boards are under that insulation. The stairs unfortunately would not run with the joist. The house was build in 1930 and the best part of the foundation is under the old coal room (it had a footer added in), outside of that the weaker area of the foundation has 3 supports added in for the floor. The foundation has had several "repair" jobs and at 1 point new base boards got put in under half the house. The point of getting an engineer is 100% understood and agreed with, I wanted to learn a little bit before paying people to come in and tell me "this isn't going to work out". Thanks again!
Positively speaking, I have plenty of open breakers in the box and the heating/ac unit can easily take the extra work load!
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08-23-2011, 07:40 AM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 5,046
Liked 237 Times on 220 Posts Likes Given: 394
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Now that your roof is repaired check again that the soffit vents didn't get plugged up.
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08-23-2011, 08:29 AM
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: San Marcos, Texas
Posts: 1,728
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts Likes Given: 4
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I think it has some potential. I'd love to see what you do with it.
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08-23-2011, 12:21 PM
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: PLEASANT HILL, Missouri
Posts: 5
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attic
Quote:
Originally Posted by nealtw
Now that your roof is repaired check again that the soffit vents didn't get plugged up.
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It has 2 gable vents only, 1 on each side of the house (level with each other). This gable vents would likely become some sort of window opening. Called and left a message with my towns zoning guy and called a local engineer this afternoon, I need to make some drawings of what I have and what I want to do then he will meet with me at the house.
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08-23-2011, 05:15 PM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 5,046
Liked 237 Times on 220 Posts Likes Given: 394
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If you go ahead with this you will want to do the math and make a plan for venting the roof. It's really important for attics with bonus rooms. You would need soffit vents to allow air in at the bottom if the rafters and install more than required vent on one side of the peak to let the hot air out. The rafters will need to be enlarged in the room area to allow 8 to 10 inches of insulation and still have 1 1/2 to 2 inches above that for air to move freely. Build pony walls with 2x6 for more insulation with scraps wood nailed across the back to hold insulation in place.
After the engineering the venting is most important!!
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10-26-2012, 09:12 AM
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: PLEASANT HILL, Missouri
Posts: 5
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Roof line
I've read all kinds of stuff online about roof height minimums, I have 89" from the current floor to the rafters at the center. After adding rafters to allow spacing for the insulation and a subfloor I could easily have less than 7' in the center. Are there codes on a house built in 1930 for livable spaces vs closets and office space?
JR
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10-26-2012, 10:06 AM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: vancouver, b.c.
Posts: 5,046
Liked 237 Times on 220 Posts Likes Given: 394
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I think in most places your min. is around 80" the height of a door.
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10-26-2012, 01:57 PM
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Cottage Grove, Oregon
Posts: 659
Liked 45 Times on 44 Posts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by proprojects
After adding rafters to allow spacing for the insulation and a subfloor I could easily have less than 7' in the center. Are there codes on a house built in 1930 for livable spaces vs closets and office space? JR
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You need to touch base with your local AHJ (the people who will issue the building permit after reviewing your remodel plans) for an answer to that question. I believe the IRC requires at least 50% of a living space have a ceiling height greater than 7'. Some local jurisdictions are known for relaxing current code requirements on older buildings, while others don't allow any leeway.
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10-27-2012, 12:21 AM
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Drawer of Homes
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Orange, CA.
Posts: 51
Liked 5 Times on 3 Posts Likes Given: 1
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Quote:
SECTION R305 CEILING HEIGHT
R305.1 Minimum height. Habitable space, hallways, bathrooms, toilet rooms, laundry rooms and portions of basements containing these spaces shall have a ceiling height of not less than 7 feet (2134 mm).
Exceptions:
1. For rooms with sloped ceilings, at least 50 percent of the required floor area of the room must have a ceiling height of at least 7 feet (2134 mm) and no portion of the required floor area may have a ceiling height of less than 5 feet (1524 mm).
2. Bathrooms shall have a minimum ceiling height of 6 feet 8 inches (2032 mm) at the center of the front clearance area for fixtures as shown in Figure R307.1. The ceiling height above fixtures shall be such that the fixture is capable of being used for its intended purpose. A shower or tub equipped with a showerhead shall have a minimum ceiling height of 6 feet 8 inches (2032 mm) above a minimum area 30 inches (762 mm) by 30 inches (762 mm) at the showerhead.
R305.1.1 Basements. Portions of basements that do not contain habitable space, hallways, bathrooms, toilet rooms and laundry rooms shall have a ceiling height of not less than 6 feet 8 inches (2032 mm).
Exception: Beams, girders, ducts or other obstructions may project to within 6 feet 4 inches (1931 mm) of the finished floor.
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Here is that code section, IRC 2009.
Andy.
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