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Old 11-30-2009, 01:48 PM  
Ted White
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Electric heater is small and heats a room. Electric furnace heats bigger area and had ducts. I guess my point being that if it's a furnace, he needs air to support combustion, but doesn't need the door open to get heat out.

Flanking refers to sound escaping a room. Doors, windows, ventilation, ceiling can lights, outlets would all be examples of flanking.

You'll find that stopping surface movement isn't possible. You can't make anthing infinately stiff, so better pursuing other means.

For isolating mechanical noise, see post #5 of this thread.



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Old 11-30-2009, 02:40 PM  
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OK, cuz I remember seeing these commercials for "Aprilaire" electric furnaces, and what it was was heat lamps inside large diameter copper tubes. The light from the lamp would heat the copper tubes, and air from a fan blew over the outside of those copper tubes and into the room. And, they called that nonsense an electric furnace.

The way I look at it is that you can have a tempest in a teapot. And that teapot floating in a pond. As long as the exterior walls of the teapot don't move, there won't be any ripples in the pond. And that's true regardless of what's going on inside the tea pot.



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Old 11-30-2009, 02:44 PM  
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Not sure on the furnace. The OP will have to say what he's got going on there.

In practical terms, regardless of the mental imagery, you can't make something stiff enough so as not to re-create a sound wave.

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Old 11-30-2009, 07:40 PM  
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I am not sure if every 1 is quite clear on a certain point of my problem. I am kind of getting lost. The electric Furnace, that I have in my brothers up goes into a duck ventilation. The ventilation runs in a straight line from one end of the trailer to the other. So The Heater is heating the Master bedroom, the bathroom, brothers bedroom, the spare bedroom, the living room, and the kitchen. I understand about putting up the plywood, drywall, and foam to help reduce the noise, and all that. but my question is that if i go with drywall, would a trailer that has been up for over 20+ years be able to support it? and like I said in an eariler post i had to take part of the frame to the closest out to make it fit right, so he doesnt have a door, and like 2 feet of frame left on his closest.

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Old 11-30-2009, 08:26 PM  
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Countryboy:
So you're saying that the electric furnace occupies most of the closet (all but 2 feet of the closet space). Is that right?

Ted:
I don't think the goal is to have NO reproduced sound wave eminating from the external panels of the heater (since it's likely the bottom panel of the heater is gonna make noise and even the warm air ducts themselves will likely vibrate. I think the goal is to reduce the movement of the exterior panels of the heater as much as practical to reduce the noise in the bedroom as much as is practical.

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Old 11-30-2009, 09:11 PM  
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I took some pics I do not know exactly how much help it would be, but I figure that it might help a little.







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Old 11-30-2009, 09:15 PM  
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Thats after I took the frame out. The front of the heater(the peice that has the little black thing that has something dealing with the manufactured. is where I have to take the panel off to fix it if it breaks down. like the top peice is where the blower is at. the bottom panel is where the thermadisks and where you connect the wiring from the circuit breaker to. The blower/fan/etc blows the air under the unit through the base into the duck system where it gets air to every room.

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Old 11-30-2009, 11:04 PM  
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Does warm air also come out the top of that thing to heat the bedroom, or only out through the bottom into the ductwork?

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Old 12-01-2009, 04:12 PM  
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just threw the bottom, like the pics, the black thing is where the panel comes off so i can get to the blower, and the little vent thing on the top is where the air filter is that sucks the air into the heater to go to the blower

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Old 12-01-2009, 06:32 PM  
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Well, what we need to do is prevent those panels from vibrating. The problem is that if you cover them with foam rubber, then you're not going to be able to easily get at the blower through the front panel. Also, you can't cover that top panel (where air gets in to the blower).

If it were me, I'd try wrapping some sort of foam rubber around the side panels, putting plywood or drywall outside of that and holding everything together with bungee cord, rope, twine or whatever.

Doing anything to the closet walls will cut down the noise in the next room, but won't do anything for the bedroom.

You can't cover the top panel because that's the air intake for the electric furnace.

Following the game plan (foam rubber and then drywall or plywood on the outside) will help cut down the noise created by the panels you don't need to remove. However human hearing isn't linear, so covering 4 or the 5 exposed sides WON'T reduce the noise level by 80 percent. It'll reduce the noise level, but the percieved reduction will be much less than 80 percent.

If you can remove the blower from the electric furnace, you best option might be to remove the impeller and clean it. If there is an accumulation of dirt on the impeller, the impeller will be heavier, and is likely to produce stronger vibrations than a clean impeller will.

So, there's not a heck of a lot I can recommend here. You have a noisy machine, and you can't cover some of it without preventing air from getting into it.

Apart from building a heavy enclosure around it, I'm at a loss to find any truly effective way of cutting down the amount of noise it makes. And, building a heavy enclosure around would require that the heat can get out to warm the bedroom, and that's going to allow noise out as well.

Hopefully someone else, perhaps Ted White, may think of something I haven't thought of.



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